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Generations 8-9 1987-1996 F150 + 1987-1997 F250, F350

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  #11  
Old 02-06-2020, 06:07 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Also, like the Neutral Safety Switch, 1994 and below are 2G atlernators on Rock Auto.

Guess I'm buying a 1995 Alternator.

Also, if I ever buy another Gen 8/9 Truck, I'll be looking for a 1995 or 1996. ^_^ Apparently that's when Ford decided to get the bugs out of the original old body style trucks and made things run better in gen 9.
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2020, 06:08 PM
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91 was the last year for 2g. Like primetime said, lack of a fan on the alternator means it's a 3g.
Check the wires that plug into the alternator too. I had an issue on a 3g where the wires didnt seat properly, and it was hot or miss. They call it a 1 wire, but it takes 3.
1 from the solenoid bolted on. 2 in plug goes to alternator. 1 is green red. That is the key wire tells it to charge. Other wire comes out and back into alternater. That is usually white. That excites the diode.

If these are loose, or not making correct contact they will not work under load. You can get this piece on ebay for about $5 if you need to rewire. Solder and heat shrink, no butt splices please

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  #13  
Old 02-06-2020, 06:11 PM
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Take a picture of your alternator please before you do anything. You dont just change from a 2g to a 3g. There is rewiring and buss fuses involved.
If indeed you have a 2g. I have no problem giving you a list of what you need, and how to do it including pictures. I have several here I have done with great results

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  #14  
Old 02-06-2020, 06:16 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustybumpers View Post
Take a picture of your alternator please before you do anything. You dont just change from a 2g to a 3g. There is rewiring and buss fuses involved.
If indeed you have a 2g. I have no problem giving you a list of what you need, and how to do it including pictures. I have several here I have done with great results

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Oh! Good to know.

I'll probably be in the shop next week doing a ground repair to the amp and working on the Neutral Safety Switch/MLPS, so I'll get some good tests done on alternator wiring, inspect the pins, etc and take some pictures of it.

The 750W amp is an extra draw, plus I have LED fog lights on the front ranch hands. Any extra power from a better alternator wouldn't be a bad thing, good to know there's a conversion process!
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  #15  
Old 02-06-2020, 06:54 PM
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As long as the lights are wired through relays they will draw very low voltage.

Remember. Fan behind belt=2g
No fan behind belt =3g
This is a 3g on my 94 that has belt issues


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  #16  
Old 02-06-2020, 10:06 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustybumpers View Post
As long as the lights are wired through relays they will draw very low voltage.

Remember. Fan behind belt=2g
No fan behind belt =3g
This is a 3g on my 94 that has belt issues


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Yeah, it's starter solenoid --> relay & in-line fuse that came with lights - -> led fog lights.

The amp however is starter solenoid --> In-line fuse wiring --> Amp --> Speakers. That's how it was depicted it should be wired.

Yep, I took a look at the pictures on rock auto and saw the ones that had fans and didn't have fans. Pretty easy to see (vented siding for fan airflow).

If I had a 2g that got replaced with a 3g in 2013, would the truck have still worked despite the shop doing any "modifications" to the truck to get the alternator in?

Also, I went looking at 1991 alternators on rock auto just to see the difference. I see a "Plastic fan" right behind the pulley. Got it. HOWEVER, there are some without the plastic fan that rock auto is still listing as 2g in both the 1991, 1992, and 1994 years. Is that possible, because that makes me think I still possibly have a 2g or my alternator was replaced haphazardly with a 3g and may be the reason I'm burning out my electronics over the long haul because I never had any modifications done to accomodate a 3g in a 2g wiring harness.

Either way, I think I want to go for the higher amp 1995 alternator that has the same bolt pattern and 3g stamp of approval. Will get better information on the alternator after I've done my grounding repair at the amp, wire checks on power, powder distribution box checks and added the newer style Neutral Safety Switch and completed MLPS adjustment/check.

Last edited by Kaajot; 02-06-2020 at 10:13 PM.
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  #17  
Old 02-09-2020, 11:41 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Hey Dusty, what modifications are required to add a 3G Alternator if I am running on a 2G Alternator? We're suspecting the voltage regulator is out of wack (AC/DC issue I mentioned earlier causing a whirling hum sound in the speakers that grows louder with RPM). So I think I'm going to just put a new alternator in anyway -- if I have a 2G, what do I need to do?

And if I have a 3G, how do I just verify the wiring is not in 2G-format? Both are possibilities based on my knowledge of the truck and being the second owner since 2009. Same question, basically, but if they put a 3G in 2013 and it was originally a 2G, that would explain my electrical gremlins.

Last edited by Kaajot; 02-09-2020 at 11:41 PM. Reason: Alternator
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  #18  
Old 02-10-2020, 08:09 AM
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I'll put something together for you today.
I'm not sure why someone would put a 2g on a 3g truck, but...….

Keep an eye open later today when I go to the shop

I may make a new thread for Dukin to put up in the stickies
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  #19  
Old 02-10-2020, 02:26 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustybumpers View Post
I'll put something together for you today.
I'm not sure why someone would put a 2g on a 3g truck, but...….

Keep an eye open later today when I go to the shop

I may make a new thread for Dukin to put up in the stickies
Cool!

I found a youtube video that showed a wiring splice change for a 2G to 3G conversion on the two black and white (or could be red, but pretty sure it was white) third line goes into the new 3G connection, but is that ALL that has to happen? I think there's more too it, per your earlier post, as a wiring splice and increasing the ground (negatives) to a larger gauge is far too easy.

And I know you said 1991, but I continue to find most information online states up to 1994 was 2G alternators out of the factory, which makes sense because it looks like Ford's quality control reworked all the known bugs on defective parts or problematic parts starting with 1995 Gen 9s.

Really will be keeping my eyes peeled for a 1995 or 1996 now in good condition -- would prefer a 250 or even 350 though if I'm buying another F-Series.
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  #20  
Old 02-10-2020, 02:30 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
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And another thing

Also, because I know amps and watts and volts, but didn't really size out my 750 Watt Amplifier, it turns out I may have been running my Amp at 100% without a buffer assuming I have a 75-80 amp alternator.

To run at 60% of the power drain on the 750 Watt Amp, I needed something more like 120 amp+ alternator, and I didn't even factor in the actual power drain from the truck's normal components.

So.... that could have been an electrical problem from the get go also, assuming I don't have a 3G 135 amp already installed.
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1992 f150, e40d, mlps, neutral safety switch

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