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  #11  
Old 04-13-2016, 04:59 AM
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Lorddurock Lorddurock is offline
 
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a million X on rockauto. i have always like wagner brake parts, i love there severduty pads. Bendix and Raybestos are also good brands.
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  #12  
Old 04-13-2016, 10:43 AM
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Thanks for the thread revival & suggestions guys. I cringe buying pads knowing how much they're marked up. I'll check Rock Auto & Amazon next time for some good quality ceramic. I hate the semi-metallic brake dust crap.

Ryan
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  #13  
Old 04-13-2016, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john112deere View Post
Bumping for Bill's opinion on rear brakes- I know he has one, but I can't remember what it is.

Left adjuster disintegrated last week...with 110k, I'll replace everything and figure it'll last the life of the truck.

(Meanwhile, I popped the drum, let the loose pieces fall out, and stuck the drum back on. Good thing it's bike season...)
Wagner ThermoQuiet and Wagner hardware kits. Due to a lack of vendors in my area, I wound up using Rockauto for the shoes. Rock has the potential to be great but if they ship from more than one location, thanks to shipping costs your good buy may quickly turn into a good bye; gotta keep an eye on those people. When that happens, ebay, amazon and partsgeek have worked well. For lube I used some ceramglyde; they sold small packets at an Oreillys and the heat rating is higher than silglyde. For optimal results, turn the drums and since you live in an area where the primary road surface material in the winter is salt, I've noticed that many people have probs with rear parking brake cables. On that note and it it were me, I'd consider replacing the ones common to the brake backing plates. I grabbed one at NAPA and I seem to recall it was only like, $25 or so (was not replaced due to corrosion).

* Surely you know the problem everyone has with the Motorcraft (ie, grabby at first on rainy/damp days) and you remember the absolute hell I went through with Raybestos (warmed up, grew in diameter, drag and got sizzling hot), right?

Edit: This is a really good time to flush the hydraulics and get that dirty and damp old fluid out of there.
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-Life is far too short to be serious all the time. So if you can't stop and laugh at yourself along the way, give me a call and I'll do it for you.

04 Ranger Fx4 Level II, 5R55E, Sonic Blue Pearl, loaded.


Useful Ford Vehicle Resources:

Owners Manuals >>> http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandse...owner-manuals/
Build Information (click on "vehicle") >>> https://www.etis.ford.com/
Wiring schematics and TSB's (click on "technical information") >>> http://bbbind.com/
Repair guides, includes schematics w/connector pinouts >>> http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/r...nfoLanding.jsp

Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; 04-13-2016 at 11:35 AM.
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  #14  
Old 04-13-2016, 01:05 PM
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ive had duralast.. Advances brand (been so long i cant remember what they called them).. mastercraft... napa gold and silver.. gm, motorcraft... summit racings brand.. ect ect.. theyre all about the same to me.. some make more dust than others.. but that can vary between composite semi metallics and ceramic.. just depends on your preference..
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  #15  
Old 04-13-2016, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O'Rattlecan View Post
Thanks for the thread revival & suggestions guys. I cringe buying pads knowing how much they're marked up. I'll check Rock Auto & Amazon next time for some good quality ceramic. I hate the semi-metallic brake dust crap.

Ryan

i switched from the semi-metalic to the ceramic pads when i had to do the ones on the mustang.. the dusting actually got worse.. with the semi-metallics i could go a good week before the dust started showing up on the rims.. the ceramics i can see it pretty much after the first drive when i clean the rims off..
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  #16  
Old 04-13-2016, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyBilly9Mile View Post
Wagner ThermoQuiet and Wagner hardware kits.
...
* Surely you know the problem everyone has with the Motorcraft (ie, grabby at first on rainy/damp days) and you remember the absolute hell I went through with Raybestos (warmed up, grew in diameter, drag and got sizzling hot), right?
Thank you! Yes, with 110k on the factory parts I'm familiar with their bad habits (though they do improve with time, probably starting when the star wheel seizes up due to rust ), but I couldn't remember which aftermarket brand was which in your experience.


I'm not in any hurry 'cause it's not really my primary transport for the next several months...boy, does that make it easier.
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  #17  
Old 04-13-2016, 08:08 PM
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NP. And I do believe that if you go to pirate (or a quick google for rock discount) there is a forever 5% discount code. Money saved on auto parts = more money to spend on.....beer!!!
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-Bill

-Life is far too short to be serious all the time. So if you can't stop and laugh at yourself along the way, give me a call and I'll do it for you.

04 Ranger Fx4 Level II, 5R55E, Sonic Blue Pearl, loaded.


Useful Ford Vehicle Resources:

Owners Manuals >>> http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandse...owner-manuals/
Build Information (click on "vehicle") >>> https://www.etis.ford.com/
Wiring schematics and TSB's (click on "technical information") >>> http://bbbind.com/
Repair guides, includes schematics w/connector pinouts >>> http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/r...nfoLanding.jsp
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  #18  
Old 04-15-2016, 11:31 AM
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U order yet?
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-Bill

-Life is far too short to be serious all the time. So if you can't stop and laugh at yourself along the way, give me a call and I'll do it for you.

04 Ranger Fx4 Level II, 5R55E, Sonic Blue Pearl, loaded.


Useful Ford Vehicle Resources:

Owners Manuals >>> http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandse...owner-manuals/
Build Information (click on "vehicle") >>> https://www.etis.ford.com/
Wiring schematics and TSB's (click on "technical information") >>> http://bbbind.com/
Repair guides, includes schematics w/connector pinouts >>> http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/r...nfoLanding.jsp
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  #19  
Old 06-18-2016, 09:31 PM
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As noted above...this truck is my secondary transport during summer months, so although it needed some brake work, I put it off until it was convenient to deal with it.

All that it actually needed was adjuster cables (one broke and fell someplace it was squealing- I disassembled and removed the loose pieces immediately, then ordered parts and ignored them a while...but given the mileage it seemed like shoes were a good idea. Then a stuck adjuster (couldn't back off the star wheel) meant I put a hurtin' on one drum getting it off. So new drums, too. And since I couldn't bring mysefl to put all those new parts over wheel cylinders that cruddy looking...and the fittings on them were rusted fast...new hard lines back to the pumpkin, too.

Brake jobs shouldn't be that hard...but so it goes. For all you non-rusty-place dwellers...here's what the inside of drum brakes looks like after 7 years and 112k miles. Wonder how many years it's been since those star wheels would move?



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1997 Ranger XLT 4x2, 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed -- 2009 Ranger XLT 4x4, 4.0L V-6 5-speed -- 1986 BMW R80

The advantages of modern engineering are in many ways over balanced by the disadvantages of modern civilization.
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  #20  
Old 06-18-2016, 11:16 PM
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should come do the rear ones on lil dually next time.. youll have some "fun" there lol...
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2004 F350 Crew Cab Super Duty Dually 6.0 v8 Power Stroke.
2004 3.9L V6 Mustang

"I don't think the intelligence reports are all that hot. Some days I get more out of the New York Times. "
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