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Generations 8-9 1987-1996 F150 + 1987-1997 F250, F350

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  #1  
Old 01-30-2018, 10:14 PM
dna_32746 dna_32746 is offline
 
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C6 issues

Need some help. Rebuilt my C6 for 88 F250 4x4 . Installed new torque converter until it was debu snug and measured it with a yard stick on the front of the case and it was the same as when I pulled it out. Tested transmission in drive way with wheels up, no load, worked great in all gears. Test drove and worked well for about 15 minutes. Shifted as expected. Stopped and it then wild hardly engage going forward. Put it in park and can hear a sort of whining noise or something spinning. Then as it slows it stops.

No leaks, fluids where it should be, ...any ideas as to where I should start?

Thanks in advance

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  #2  
Old 01-31-2018, 02:57 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Hey dna-

I've gone through three transmissions, but I'm an E40D Automatic tranny, 2wd on my straight 6.

Fluids would be one thing, just double-check. I did a tranny swap and the guys that helped me missed snugging a connection and I emptied myself in Walmart after about 50 miles. That would be evident, but you could have a slow leak that isn't as apparent as a gutting.

Second, you've got a flex plate (fly wheel) right? When I went down the 3-transmission-swop saga, it started with a broken bell housing from the registered & certified mechanic shop that we found on an engine pull, and after looking into it further we found a perfect circle of cracks with the flex plate (fly wheel on manual) that caused my truck to no longer move very well (if at all). Hate to say you'd have to open up the torque converter again, but might be worth looking at hard if no other easier solutions are thrown your way.

I'm not a super-mechanic, but that plate spinning fine without pressure (wheels off floor) and then not spinning under pressure (on floor) could be one thing to look at if you didn't look hard when installing. Wish I had the picture of mine still -- was a perfect circle of cracks between the mounting pins and conveniently spun after the first transmission was installed, but was working the fissures wider so eventually it would do nothing.
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Old 02-04-2018, 03:14 PM
dna_32746 dna_32746 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaajot View Post
Hey dna-

I've gone through three transmissions, but I'm an E40D Automatic tranny, 2wd on my straight 6.

Fluids would be one thing, just double-check. I did a tranny swap and the guys that helped me missed snugging a connection and I emptied myself in Walmart after about 50 miles. That would be evident, but you could have a slow leak that isn't as apparent as a gutting.

Second, you've got a flex plate (fly wheel) right? When I went down the 3-transmission-swop saga, it started with a broken bell housing from the registered & certified mechanic shop that we found on an engine pull, and after looking into it further we found a perfect circle of cracks with the flex plate (fly wheel on manual) that caused my truck to no longer move very well (if at all). Hate to say you'd have to open up the torque converter again, but might be worth looking at hard if no other easier solutions are thrown your way.

I'm not a super-mechanic, but that plate spinning fine without pressure (wheels off floor) and then not spinning under pressure (on floor) could be one thing to look at if you didn't look hard when installing. Wish I had the picture of mine still -- was a perfect circle of cracks between the mounting pins and conveniently spun after the first transmission was installed, but was working the fissures wider so eventually it would do nothing.
Thanks

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Old 02-04-2018, 04:49 PM
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dustybumpers dustybumpers is offline
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You have to turn, and push, turn and push the converter until it "seats"
It will go all the way back until you can't get your fingers between it and the transmission case
If the converter isn't seated when you bolt the transmission up to the block, you will break the pump
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Old 02-24-2018, 11:10 PM
dna_32746 dna_32746 is offline
 
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Oddly enough it took awhile to get all the fluid through the system. I pulled the valve body drained, cleaned, and refilled. Bought a oil pressure tester and the pressure would go up and down. After letting it run and continuing to monitor fluid, adding as needed, it is fully functional.

Thanks to all.

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Old 02-24-2018, 11:15 PM
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Glad you got it going and thanks for letting us know what it was... will help someone reading this in the future!
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Old 02-25-2018, 08:13 AM
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Fellro Fellro is offline
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The converter takes quite a bit to fill, and can not be prefilled due to how it is positioned so it takes quite a bit to fill it up while running, so you have to keep topping off the level until it finally fills up.
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