dustybumpers said:

when the weather breaks better, lock just 1 hub, then climb under the truck, and turn the drive shaft until it stops.
Unlock that hub, turn the drive shaft free again.
lock the other hub, turn the drive shaft until it stops.
If you have a bad hub, the driveshaft will keep turning even when the hub is locked.

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hmmm never thought of that... will have to try it...

dustybumpers said:

Convert it to a saginaw pump.

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meh.. still works... no need too... maybe if the rib counts the same i could convert a SD one to it lol... would have to look at that sometime..

Was a popular swap with the I6 4.9 guys. there are a few points need altering on the pump bracket, but swap is easy to do.

id probably build one from scratch lol...

well managed to confirm its the u-joints on the ends of the axles.. was making a wide turn and it jerked the wheel from my hands... shouldnt do it on wide turns for sure...

even tried to shift from 2wd-4wd vice versa... seems to let me do it both at a stand still and rolling... so musta had the tcase in neutral and was why it wouldnt let me without the tranny in N as well..

T case has to be in gear, or you will tear the transmission apart.
Kinda like jacking up the rear off the ground, and putting the truck in drive, then slamming it in park.
Not a good idea.

I usually run with the hubs locked, and pull the stick back only when the truck slips. as soon as the truck recovers, I push it back in 2h.
We very seldom get enough snow in our part of the country to put it in 4x4 and keep it there.
keep in mind, you have to have a slip surface for it to be in 4x4, or you WILL lock up the drivetrain and break things.

Replacing the ujoints pretty easy job. You wanted to replace the hubs, and with the way your truck was maintained, I'm sure it could use a wheel bearing repack.

dustybumpers said:

T case has to be in gear, or you will tear the transmission apart.
Kinda like jacking up the rear off the ground, and putting the truck in drive, then slamming it in park.
Not a good idea.

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was meaning back when i first got the truck... i musta had the tcase in neutral and was why i couldnt get it back into 2wd without the tranny being in neutral..

dustybumpers said:

I usually run with the hubs locked, and pull the stick back only when the truck slips. as soon as the truck recovers, I push it back in 2h.
We very seldom get enough snow in our part of the country to put it in 4x4 and keep it there.
keep in mind, you have to have a slip surface for it to be in 4x4, or you WILL lock up the drivetrain and break things.

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we rarely do either... but when we do it turns to ice quickly.. and the citys only have 4 plow trucks from what we're told so unless its a "primary" road they dont get plowed.. weve had some nasty roads for about the last 3 or 4 weeks.. the one weekend it was nice i had to go to ohio which they were an ice and mud rink there.. come back and we get icy snow.. so for about the last month i really havent had much unlock time on the front end.. main roads are pretty clear now.. but the parking lots and side streets i have to get on are still nasty..

dustybumpers said:

Replacing the ujoints pretty easy job. You wanted to replace the hubs, and with the way your truck was maintained, I'm sure it could use a wheel bearing repack.

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dealers probably had them bearings out a couple times as the front axles have been out atleast twice for service ive had done.. but both times they said the ujoints were good.. but musta failed since.

Fellro said:

Is it kind of a buzzing type whine? Since it is speed related, but not rpm related, leads me to think more along the lines of a wheel bearing.

T-case engaged, it could maybe be there as well, but I would check wheel bearings before getting too exited. Also would go along with a hub problem.

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dustybumpers said:

Bad u joints

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Both were right.. Truck went in last night for them to look at today... Service writer called right at the end of my lunch hour to say i had both a bad wheel bearing and Ujoint on the driver side, along with a torn up axle seal (did not notice that)said they found rust shavings coming out from the wheel bearing and the ujoints.. so theyre fixing that side.. Warranty's going to pay for most of it.. my part will be $175 i think he said.. When i asked about having the other side done just to make them even he told me it would be $1700 just for the other side... told him just to fix the right side...

The wheel bearings are a hub/bearing assembly. No packing necessary.

thought that was only on the 2wd ones where they were all in 1?

Sparky83 said:

Both were right.. Truck went in last night for them to look at today... Service writer called right at the end of my lunch hour to say i had both a bad wheel bearing and Ujoint on the driver side, along with a torn up axle seal (did not notice that)said they found rust shavings coming out from the wheel bearing and the ujoints.. so theyre fixing that side.. Warranty's going to pay for most of it.. my part will be $175 i think he said.. When i asked about having the other side done just to make them even he told me it would be $1700 just for the other side... told him just to fix the right side...

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Other side should be ok for now. I would check it when the weather breaks

blacksnapon said:

The wheel bearings are a hub/bearing assembly. No packing necessary.

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Don't he have the old style on a dana 60?

dustybumpers said:

Other side should be ok for now. I would check it when the weather breaks

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was quieter on the way home... but was bumper to bumper... $163.53 for me...

dustybumpers said:

Don't he have the old style on a dana 60?

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i know theres a difference in the axle from 02 and 04... enough of one they need 2 different tools for seating a seal...

Well ????????????

With all the white crap we got yesterday, how did it do ?

dustybumpers said:

Well ????????????

With all the white crap we got yesterday, how did it do ?

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i got nuffin had it in 2wd... seems to ride smoother dont hear the metal shaving sound anymore going down the road with the hubs unlocked.. guess that was the wheel hub bearing...