So I finally got everything buttoned up on the truck, took it for a spin and still have the same issues, it slips in anything but first and second. I replaced the clutch, re-faced (didn't pull it and have it resurfaced) the flywheel and reassembled. Is my issue at the flywheel where I didn't pull it?


Second question, I've had the smell of coolant coming from under the hood for quite some time now, never found any leaks nor is there any fluids where they shouldn't be, where should I look for my mystery leak?

Thanks,

Do you mean slips out of gear and into neutral? That sounds like a trans problem, not a clutch or flywheel problem. My Duster did something similar when I first got it and the problem was wear on the tip of the main shaft.

To find a coolant leak, get a coolant system pressure tester.

no, the clutch slips...

If you're smelling coolant in the cab then check for a leaking heater element.

Nothing in the cab, that was my first thought too.

Did you replace the pressure plate also?

Ya know I think I did, everything had less than 6k on it and it's been six months since I buttoned up the swap i couldn't tell you right off...

But why can I hold WOT in first and second w/o ANY issues but third and fourth have massive amounts of slippage???

Because it takes less torque to get the vehicle going in the lower gears with the mechanical advantage. My 6.9 is doing the same right now, I have a new clutch to put in, just have to take the time to tear it down. It does fine in 1st and second, but 3rd with some big hills or a trailer, and it slips. Is there any chance of some oil getting in there making it slip? Perhaps the coolant leak is one of the core plugs on the rear?

Slipping in higher gears but not lower is just physics. Without getting into it, let's just say it's normal and expected.

I'm confused on what "re-faced" means. You're *supposed* to pull the flywheel and have it resurfaced by a flywheel surface grinder. If it's got a lot of miles on it, it would be a good idea to flip the ring gear around as well. If the flywheel surface isn't *perfectly* flat, then the clutch won't have enough contact area to grab and it will slip.

It's tough to buy just a clutch. You normally can only get the kit with new bearings and a new pressure plate, so I doubt you re-used the old one.

I took some fine grit sand paper to the face of the flywheel to remove the glaze. Everything has seemed to work itself together though, There'd been quite a bit of a hang up with the throw out bearing so I just drove the piss out of it this afternoon and seems to have been solved, hauled 1700lbs to the scrap yard w/o issue, other than not wanting to start after I got there (thinking it's the year old fuel in the tank). On to the idle issues now...

1970Custom said:

I took some fine grit sand paper to the face of the flywheel to remove the glaze.

Click to expand...

I think I found the problem, captain.