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Generations 8-9 1987-1996 F150 + 1987-1997 F250, F350

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  #1  
Old 03-13-2019, 06:41 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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Question O2 Sensor - 1992 F150 4.9 VIN Y Automatic

Hi all-

Never really had any feedback on all of the other threads, but I did "fix" everything for about two months.

Now the truck is dead on the side of the road with codes 126 and 327. I've replaced the MAP sensor four times in a year now (under warranty and swapping brands).

126 is the MAP sensor code again.
327 is EGR low voltage.

I changed EGR solenoid, TAB/TAD solenoids, and everything out in 2015 and 2016. We also replaced the TPS last month along with the MAP warranty. I think there is a new EGR valve was replaced in 2016 also, if not 2015.

I've been going through YouTube and Online looking up symptoms, causes, etc. So far one very possible cause for the EGR and MAP "effect" is a bad 02 Sensor. I have smelled rotten eggs occasionally over the last two months.

My mechanic just put an new O2 Sensor on for me a few months ago. I think I purchased it off RockAuto, or from NAPA.

Does anyone have any advice here? Can an O2 Sensor fail so quickly? It appears that if the O2 Sensor has gone bad that it will fail to send voltage up to the components that were a problem (MAP, TPS, EGR). Is this correct?

Appreciate any advice. I'm trying to have this truck stop breaking on me so I can take picture of it, cleaned up. I just had a bath but needs another one. Under the hood is pretty but the motor mounts are worn and the engine moves 4-12 inches right now at times (we're changing those out soon when I change the oil pump and oil pan). Hopefully will take photos after that phase of "rebuild."

There is light rust on the wheel wells. This Summer, if it's alive, I'll buy replacements and start fixing the body since the rust is now becoming evident.

Thanks again.

-KJ
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  #2  
Old 03-13-2019, 09:21 PM
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Is your cat intact? The rotten egg smell is indicative of a cat problem. If it gets plugged, you will initially lose power, then no go. It is generally initially caused by an overfueling condition, whether vacuum leak or a bad regulator.
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  #3  
Old 03-14-2019, 09:25 AM
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Bad 02 sensor will fry a cat
Could be 02 sensor is good, you have a fuel problem, just o2 sensor picking it up
Checked the fuel pressure lately?

Did you ever do anything about having 2 intake gaskets on? I recall you saying you did that at one point
That is a problem there
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:44 PM
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Hey Dusty & Fellro-

Yep, we took care of the double gasket the dude that owes me $1500 put in about a year ago (January 2018). So now it's a single and seems to be holding together.

Actually, we put in a new Cat Converter in 2017 also and a new egr tube that mates up that way. There was a HUGE hole in the old cat (rust/blown out). Rock Auto purchases.

I believe we did check the fuel pressure, but I can recommend that check again. When I was TS'n the fuel issues before the new MAP and TPS we checked the Safety Inertia Switch (it's good), voltage at the pumps (they're good) and ran the new ground to the the front fuel pump directly to negative just to see if that made a difference. Also replaced the fuel selector switch on the dash because it was showing bad earlier Fall 2018, Napa part.

I was thinking O2 sensor fried itself (defective?) because ScannerDanner (YouTube) showed the O2 fried would cause the rotten egg smell, but maybe the O2 fried the cat. It's a brand new cat! :-(

The other problem is the motor mounts rocking everything and I really need to get a day on the lift where we support the engine and fix that -- have new motor mounts, so it's happening sooner than later. Wondering if the motor mounts can be agitating the O2 sensor or the Cat and causing this?

The only other thing I can think of is maybe the Ignition Control Module or my PCM went bad and is causing the low voltage at the O2 sensor? PCM was replaced Fall 2016, still under warranty can get them to send me a new one.

Appreciate the fast responses.

-KJ
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Old 03-15-2019, 06:28 AM
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Motor mounts

When it jumps up, it unhooks the vacuum for the map. and there is all the codes.
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Old 03-15-2019, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustybumpers View Post
Motor mounts

When it jumps up, it unhooks the vacuum for the map. and there is all the codes.
It's on the immediate short list. Got the parts already.


I think the map is connected though, I can check. Eventually I think it would do what you're saying though given the way it was moving near the end.

But yes, it's jumping all over the place. What about the low voltage at the EGR (327 code) and the return to low economy (2-6 mpg) and burnt eggs?

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Old 03-16-2019, 12:20 PM
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Worn out, plugged, restricted catalytic convertor.
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  #8  
Old 03-19-2019, 01:35 AM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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We'll take a look at it, fatherdoug.

I don't know why the low voltage codes to things like the EGR and fuel pumps are occurring though, but I'm not a CAT expert so maybe a plugged CAT causes the voltage drop that's damaging components/throwing faults?

Going to throw a quesiton up on the 1997-2001 forum -- looking at a spare vehicle because of this, F350 or F550 for hauling/dumping.

Will keep all posted as the F150 hybrid "250" gets worked. Motor mounts are probably my first target to isolate breaking and stop new breaks from the engine jumping around.
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Old 03-19-2019, 06:46 AM
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Voltage at the egr is a measurement how much the diaphragm in the egr is moving

Have you checked the egr with vacuum to see if it is functional?


My guess it is probably filled with carbon, or rust, and not moving properly.
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Old 03-21-2019, 06:31 PM
Kaajot Kaajot is offline
 
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I've not done the test, but I ironically watched a guy on YouTube show how to test the vacuum. Talking about opening it up and covering it with your thumb type test on the solenoid?

We did rebuild last January all of the vacuum tubes during the manifold intake and exhaust reseals.

I found one last vacuum tube that was busted December or January 2019 when I installed a new heater core and blower motor, repaired that too.
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