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Generation 9 1994 F150 Clockspring Replacement Guide

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
Here is a how-to guide for those wanting to replace the clockspring in their generation 9 F-series or E-series pickups. The part numbers are different among the different models, but installation procedures are similar.

This problem gave my truck a series of symptoms. Among them were hard transmission shifts, intermittant (and ultimately failure) of speed control, and a non-functional horn.

The removal and installation of the clockspring is relatively simple provided the correct tools are available. And now we begin...

Tools needed:
Basic set of metric and standard sockets and a socket ratcheting wrench
Steering wheel puller kit (can be rented at most auto parts store - sometimes for free)
Basic #2 Phillips screwdriver
Torx head screwdriver

Step 0: UNPLUG YOUR BATTERY AND DISCHARGE THE POSITIVE LOOP BY TOUCHING THE POSITIVE CABLE TO THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST.

The first step is to remove the lower steering column cover. Do so by first removing the tilt steering lever by simply turning it left until it unthreads. The next step is to remove the 2 (or is it 3?) screws on the underside of the steering column. This piece should very easily be removed if you have removed all these screws.
IMG_0655.jpg


The next step after the removal of the lower steering column cover is to remove the airbag. We unplugged the battery for this step. The airbag may deploy if the battery is unplugged. AGAIN MAKE SURE THERE IS NO POWER TO YOUR TRUCK. There are 4 bolts that hold the airbag to the front of the steering wheel. Two bolts are on either side of the back of the wheel. Use a regular hex wrench to remove these.
IMG_0656.jpg


Here is your last chance to unplug your battery. Disconnect the airbag wire harness along with the speed sensor wire harness that connects to your cruise control buttons to the left.
IMG_0657.jpg


Next use a socket and a socket wrench to remove the center bolt of the steering wheel. After removing it, replace it with about 2-3 turns of the bolt. This needs to be loose to complete the next step.
IMG_0658.jpg


Here is the steering wheel puller set I was able to rent from O'Reilly's for free.
IMG_0659.jpg


The next step is to install the steering wheel removing kit. Only certain threaded bolts should fit, so don't force anything. Configure the setup like so. The reason for me using different bolts should not apply to most of you. My wheel looks like it was damaged before and a sleeve was inserted to replace the original threads.
IMG_0660.jpg


When you torque the end of the steering wheel remover, it should pop loose. It slid off easily after that.
IMG_0661.jpg


This is your column without the wheel. The item you're looking at is the clockspring. The clockspring is mounted with 3 torx style screws. I'm not sure what size torx head this is, but most sets include 2 sizes, and this was the larger of my two craftsman screwdrivers.
IMG_0662.jpg


Underneath the dashboard, you need to follow the two wires down to the wire harnesses for removal. A picture shows the two permanent wires where you need to unplug the old clockspring from.
IMG_0664.jpg


Unharness the wires from their routing harnesses. The clockspring is now ready to be removed.
IMG_0663.jpg


More in the next post...

Ryan
 

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
The next step is to roughly mount the new clockspring where you intend it to go. Route your wires the way the previous ones were routed.
IMG_0665-1.jpg


Put the three torx head screws back in place. When you are ready to mount the wheel back into place, route the wires through the same hole you found them in with the previous clockspring. Remove the 3-way aligning harness on the new clockspring immediately before mounting the wheel over it. Do not get this out of alignment - it is set from the factory to be where it is. Do not let it spin once you remove the 3-way harness.
IMG_0666.jpg


Make sure to put the wire back on the ignition as you found it.
IMG_0667.jpg


The the rest is easy. Double check that you connected 2 wires behind the airbag. Make sure you connected the two wires under the dash. Make sure you connected the wire on the ignition.

After that, bolt down the steering wheel again.
Once the steering wheel is bolted down, go ahead and bolt the airbag back in place.
Once the airbag is in place, put the lower steering column cover back into place.
Put your tilt steering lever back into the thread.
Connect your battery and hope you put everything back.

Your truck should now have cruise control, a working horn, and in my case my transmission quit bucking also.

Ryan
 

ameritaz3038

New York Chapter Leader
very nice job. thanks i will book mark for future use. someone may ask how to do this, or i may have to do this


reps for the work.
 

Lost

PA Chapter leader
3,288
33
central PA
Good job. Wouldn't change a thing.

Those bags can hurt when your face is by them. Don't ask.
 

silverz51

Georgia Chapter member
Great write up! My new clock spring just got here today. Tomorrow I go to the auto parts store to rent the steering wheel puller. I hope I'll successfully complete the job tomorrow. Is there some trick about the ignition switch clip? Any warnings or advise?

Thanks
 
There was a fourth screw on the bottom of my cover. If you have tilt steering I would put the wheel all the way up it made it easier to get under it to remove the wires. The ignition has a small pin I pressed it in with a screw driver and turned the key on and it came out for me. Thanks this was a great help and I have a horn and cruise control now!
 
THANK YOU!!! This was very helpful. I have successfully replaced the clock spring in my '94 F150. Hoping it fixed all the issues: airbag warning light, dead cruise control, dead horn, transmission bucking.
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
Nice writeup. The following statement in your writeup may need to be changed. "The airbag may deploy if the battery is unplugged."

I know what you meant to say, but some people may not? :D
 

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