The last two days I have driven my truck I get the distinct smell of burning brake pad/clutch. So after I get over the initial "that can't be my truck" I noticed that it was coming from the passenger rear wheel. I have an '07 and it has 34K on it. Do I own this problem or should it be covered?

You smell it while driving? Or while standing next to the truck? It's pretty improbable that you'd be able to smell something from your rear wheel while driving.

Have you tried feeling the wheels after driving for a while? If the pad is dragging hard then one of them should be fairly hot.

Skandocious said:

You smell it while driving? Or while standing next to the truck? It's pretty improbable that you'd be able to smell something from your rear wheel while driving.

Have you tried feeling the wheels after driving for a while? If the pad is dragging hard then one of them should be fairly hot.

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No, you are right, I do not smell anything until I stop. Today I got out of the truck in my driveway and there was smoke coming off the rear wheel and it was definitely hot. I could feel it as well as hear the rotor pop as it cooled off.

Well then I think you've just answer your question, lol. I'm not familiar enough with those trucks to know how they work... If you've got rear disc brakes then where is your e-brake? It would have to be cable operated and I've never heard of cable operated disc brake calipers.

Skandocious said:

Well then I think you've just answer your question, lol. I'm not familiar enough with those trucks to know how they work... If you've got rear disc brakes then where is your e-brake? It would have to be cable operated and I've never heard of cable operated disc brake calipers.

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Yeah my question was not no much technical in nature since I know what is going on but more so if it should be covered under warranty or not. I crawled under the truck after it cooled off and I could see the e-brake actuator had not released because there is a spring that is still compressed (comparing it to the other wheel).

Sounds like a faulty part (as opposed to abuse). Should be covered under warranty. Perhaps one of the resident techs can confirm that.

It's under 3/36 so you should be good.

The e-brake actuator appears to be releasing at least as much as the other wheel. Off to the dealer I guess

Well I've had my truck to the local dealer and back for the aforementioned problem. I have used the e-brake since I got the truck back and it would appear that the brake is still not fully releasing. The dealer replaced the brake actuator(???) and a backing plate and reused all internal hardware. Over the weekend I pulled the wheel off and had a look. The drum surface has wear indication so for something that is only applied when the vehicle is still that would indicate it is definitely the e-brake causing the heat.

I am inclined to think it is the cable at this point given what the dealer replaced.

Before I take it back to the dealer is there a way to clean/lubricate the cable? What grease should be used etc???

thanks,
John

If you think it'll help, I'd use white lithium grease.

Well the dealer finally determined that the rear caliper was hanging up. Don't know why. I really only noticed an issue after I'd used the e-brake and the rotor did not look any more worn than the other. As hot as it got I am amazed that it did not warp.... Pretty big chunk of metal there.

Even though I was over 36K the I had discovered the problem UNDER warranty and took it in. The shop failed to correct the problem the first time around. The Service Manager had mercy on me and covered the repair out of warranty with no argument. Obviously I felt that was the right thing to do.

I have not declared victory yet.... Hopefully no more smoking wheels... There really isn't much more to replace.

Skandocious said:

Well then I think you've just answer your question, lol. I'm not familiar enough with those trucks to know how they work... If you've got rear disc brakes then where is your e-brake? It would have to be cable operated and I've never heard of cable operated disc brake calipers.

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Alot of rear disc cars have cable operated e-brakes built into the caliper. Here is an example.

73F100Shortbed said:

Alot of rear disc cars have cable operated e-brakes built into the caliper. Here is an example.

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Yeah I thought that was possible. Mine has a completely different drum machined into the inner radius on the hub. So there is a rotor and a drum with a caliper and a brake shoe assembly.

Yeah the trucks have the shoes inside rotor for parking brakes. I just wanted to show skan that picture since he said he never saw the other setup

Well the mileage is right back to where it has averaged(non-towing that is), a respectable 16.92 mpg.... Guess the brakes are fixed.

I have the same problem I'm Going to look at this week.

73F100Shortbed said:

Yeah the trucks have the shoes inside rotor for parking brakes. I just wanted to show skan that picture since he said he never saw the other setup

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My 05 F150 supercrew has em.

I'm wondering how to go about fixing this problem.

There definately is a problem.

I have a 2006 E-350 SD and have 55,000 miles on it. On the rear I am on my third set of pads and second set of rotors. Front...all OE.

I have had the rotors (OE set) turned, I think twice, and replaced when too thin. I had the dealer leave the pads with the van after the last problem. Always only one pad on each side is worn out.

On these there is a known problem of calipers seizing and, although there has never been any work done under warranty (they say brake issues aren't covered...whatever) they always have gone easy on hours charged.

So each time I have the vehicle in for anything I tell them to check the rear calipers. Still, after a month or two I can feel that spongy feeling that is the rear calipers hanging up with only the piston-side pad working, springing the rotor. For me, the caliper usually is not sliding over to equalize the spacing due to wear. Once it stops moving the wear accelerates on the active side.

But, when the sticking caliper does move (in between sticking episodes) then it stays too tight, drags-doesn't release completely, heats rotor and warps it.

This last time I went maybe six weeks after dealer supposedly lubed the caliper guide pins and the brakes were getting spongy again! During a break in our winter weather I got under the rear end with a quality rust-busting type penetrating spray lube and tapped, gently, and lubed the mating surface where the caliper actually rests and meets the support. I also did the same at the top guide, which is above the guide pins.

Note that I did NOT drench anything, only laying a line of lube carefully so as to not get any on the pads or rotor, wiping up any excess.

It has been several weeks, probably two months now without signs of recurring spongy pedal. Twice it acted like it was getting spongy, but then it cleared up.

I can not say I have solved my problem, but obviously my trips to the dealer were not solving the problem either. The salt and corrosive action murders any vehicle and certainly is no friend of the calipers.

Rolling around under the van is not as bad as it would be under a half-ton or an automobile, but still isn't what I really want to be doing. The dealer fix isn't working and will continue as long as I keep bringing it to them and paying for pads and rotors. Next thing will be calipers.

So, if I can at least keep this under control with a squirt of lube every oil change, I guess I can live with that. It might be worth a try.

As far as parking brakes go...there is no system on a vehicle which is more frustrating than that is to me. I have had four Crown Victorias, two with rear drums, two with rear discs. The disc brake parking brake system is just like the one you described on your truck, and the same as on my van I guess..haven't had it apart. On the drum type, only cables were a problem.

On the disc brake cars the design is dependent on cables having next to no resistance from age or corrosion. The lever action upon which the cable acts: highly dependent on no rust or resistance to release. Bottom line: if it isn't factory new condition, it isn't going to release properly. Any amount of driving while dragging the parking brake pretty much assures the pad is shot. Seems to me there just isn't enough return spring pressure, but what do I know?

Wouldn't you think that after over 100 years of experience the manufacturers could come up with something to ensure that a safety required system will operate for at least half the expected life of the vehicle? They did it when they had to with the emissions components, for the most part.

Iv got a 03 F350 and my rear brakes are disk with an Ebrake drum inside, I broke mine down myself and replaced the hub seals and really cleaned the brakes, the calipers are 2 part and brake dust can jam them up from retracting, use a parts washer and a dremmel tool.
the spring system on the Ebrake will drive you nutts to reassemble. take a picture before you take it apart so you know how they all go back together.
and its not really an Ebrake, its a parking break, it will never stop you while moving, but it can hold it still