Join Our Ford Truck Forum Today

Document your Ford truck project here and inspire others! Login/Register to view the site with fewer ads.

Register Log in

Hello, new member adding a new member

john112deere

john112deere

caffeine junkie
Staff member
10,807
405
central Vermont
pgh49ford said:
As for the battery, not being familiar with a 6V, I was kind of wondering what my options would be should I get stranded on the road with a dead 6V battery. Am I left to letting it drift and trying to pop the clutch or are there options out there for trying to revive a dead 6V, aside from carrying a spare one?
Click to expand...

While I won't go so far as to recommend it, I can attest that jump-starting a 6v system from a 12v battery does not always cause instantaneous damage. :wasntme:

EDIT: Though most of my experience is with even older and more basic electric systems (Model A's)...they're pretty simple, and there's not a whole lot of really fussy stuff. Grandpa's old logsplitter has a Wisconsin engine that's supposed to be a 6v but has survived at least 20 years on 12v. I'm not recommending putting 12v in a 6v system...but from my experience, you don't need to worry too much about instantaneous, catastrophic meltdown if half a dozen extra volts are used to start it. [confused]
 
Last edited:

mtflat

Flatheads Forever
2,559
147
pgh49ford said:
Tim, thanks for taking the time to send some info along. It sure seems as though my radiator is hot after 15 minutes, but no movement on the gauge. Now that I have the license plate, I can get it out and about to see if driving it will produce a different result. I did notice that the fender was mounted to the running board, but hoped that by removing just those bolts and a few of the ones up the fender to the end of the old weatherstripping, that I could sneak the old out and slide the new in. My engine is fairly clean, thus, will go the route you have suggested. Might I ask what the increased zinc will provide in the way of a benefit??

Oil mfgr's and engine builders have been removing the zinc additive from motor oils since they started putting catalytic converters on cars in the 70's. Zinc plugs up converters. But, it's also good for cams in flat tappet engines like our flatheads...more important in race applications where spring pressure is greater, but still good. Diesel oil still has zinc - or did until last year 'cause diesels were exempt from EPA regs.
When I purchased the truck it had 4 nearly new 7.50-17 tires on it, minus a spare rim and tire. Thus, I was hoping to locate a 5th. I certainly would settle for a rim and tire along the lines that you mentioned since I am struggling to find the 17's. Can you clarify a bit more on the "high profile" and modern truck rims?

High profile - the middle number in a tire size is the height expressed as a percentage of the tire's width. Given the same width eg. 265, a 75 series is taller than a 60, and an 85 is taller than a 75, etc. I run LT215-85-16's on my half-ton which pretty well replicate the profile of the old 7.00- 16"

Rims are everywhere, junkyard, tire shops, etc. Tires can be purchased at your local tire shop.

Would the rims be something I could locate easily at a junkyard in the area and the tire something I could find through Coker? As for the battery, not being familiar with a 6V, I was kind of wondering what my options would be should I get stranded on the road with a dead 6V battery. Am I left to letting it drift and trying to pop the clutch or are there options out there for trying to revive a dead 6V, aside from carrying a spare one? Sorry for the stupid questions, if they appear so.

There are no stupid questions. Ian is right. There are no complicated electronics to fry on these trucks. You can jump your truck with a 12V in a pinch. Just don't leave it hooked up a long time.

Went with the Hagerty insurance with agreed upon value and 50 mile flatbed towing and unlimited miles a year driving restriction. Thanks again for the info!!!
Click to expand...


The reason you can get by with it has to do with stuff I forgot to learn in HS when it comes to electric theory, but 6V carries twice the AMPS and therefore requires twice the wire size that 12V requires - the 12V carries half the amps that 6 uses.
 
jeffh

jeffh

42
319
17
St. Louis
john112deere said:
While I won't go so far as to recommend it, I can attest that jump-starting a 6v system from a 12v battery does not always cause instantaneous damage. :wasntme:

EDIT: Though most of my experience is with even older and more basic electric systems (Model A's)...they're pretty simple, and there's not a whole lot of really fussy stuff. Grandpa's old logsplitter has a Wisconsin engine that's supposed to be a 6v but has survived at least 20 years on 12v. I'm not recommending putting 12v in a 6v system...but from my experience, you don't need to worry too much about instantaneous, catastrophic meltdown if half a dozen extra volts are used to start it. [confused]
Click to expand...

I've seen advertised batteries that function as 12V for starting but 6V once the engine is running. Way back when I was a teenager and driving my truck on a regular basis, I'd have to get a jump start occasionally and everything survived. I would think the biggest cause for concern would be your gauges. Also, make sure all lights are off when jump-starting with a 12V.
 

pgh49ford

20
0
thanks!

thanks for the great info! I noticed that I have numerous and varied sized grease fittings underneath. So, perhaps I will try to find a combo package in one of the catalogs that would include some straights and angled ones. Noticed that my doors seem to open pretty wide and almost touch the hood. Removed the door panel and noticed that the hinge brackets have a sort of bushing on them and they are worn to almost nothing. The bushing appears to be a buffer of sort for stopping the door from swinging. Looks like a cotter pin is all that is holding the bracket. Am off to the catalog to see what that part is. Also noticed that the passenger door lock seems to pull right out of the opening in the door. Any suggestions on how to fix that. Does it require a special tool to secure the lock?
 
john112deere

john112deere

caffeine junkie
Staff member
10,807
405
central Vermont
Seems like I've seen "kits" with different angled grease zerks in auto parts stores...might save some time, maybe even money on the shipping costs if you check that out before you order from a catalog.
 

mtflat

Flatheads Forever
2,559
147
Most of the truck parts suppliers offer the new door check brackets. Its pretty low-tech. With a new arm and rubber bumper in place your door will only hit the fender : )

The passenger door lock is held in place with a set screw and it goes in a hole that you'll find under the weather stripping. I think that one takes an allen wrench. Its possible your's is broken off in the lock. If not, consider yourself lucky - they're usually a pain to get out.
 

pgh49ford

20
0
couple of more questions

Well, I was able to fix the door swing problem with new door check brackets and I was able to secure the lock by twisting the set screw as suggested. Thus, thanks for the help. I do have a couple of other questions if i might ask...........I noticed that I have two grease fittings that have been broken off just about even with the hole they screw into. Thus, the threaded part is still in there. It is a 1/4" size and I wondered if there were a way to get it out since I have nothing to grab onto. Secondly, my drive door and passenger door have no weatherstripping at all. Would this have been the norm or has it simply been taken off by someone and not replaced. Hope that is not a stupid question, but the door seems to fit tightly without weatherstripping. I did notice a weatherstripping kit at Sacramento ford and wondered if this is a definate go forward project that I will not be sorry I ventured into and how easy is it to install? I didnt see anything that would help me with this when leafing through the shop manual. Speaking of the shop manual, I must say that it certainly helped me to get through some of the workings of the door and window, but speaking as a novice with little mechanical experience, that damn book confuses the heck out of me more than it helps me. I guess the terminology just doesnt come easy and I feel somewhat ill equipped to tackle some of the motor and wiring issues. Well, thanks for letting me ask a couple of questions!
 

mtflat

Flatheads Forever
2,559
147
Ask away - questions are always good. The grease fittings are about the only place where I'd recommend using an easy-out or drilling it out with a left-handed drill bit. Both will back the remnant out of the threads - hopefully.

The door should have weather stripping. It's easy to install - use weatherstrip adhesive (got mine from Sacto Vint but several sources are similar). There are a couple areas that have clips that hold down the w/s while it dries. If those screw-on clips are missing you might have your hands full until the adhesive dries. The biggest problem you'll have is the doors won't shut right after you put the weatherstrip in place. It takes a few years for the stuff to compress to the point where you can easily shut the door.

Don't worry about the manual - we can explain most of it fairly well as you go along. The pictures are great and worth the price so you can see what things are supposed to look like.
 

Ford Truck Articles

Recent Forum Posts

Top