Brian_B said:

Geez you guys lose me with all this talk of 2G, 3G, and alternators.

I think my genearator puts out around 28 amps or something. LOL

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2gs are fire hazzards, and you got a dinosaur there. sheese a generator.

Yep! It runs 13.2 volts on the highway with my brights on (halogen sealed beams).

I don't have a radio or any other electrical stuff.

It is doing that because the VR doesn't KICK IN until about 850 rpm...so at IDLE you are running at below ALT kick in.

It ISN'T the alternator.

Get yourself an ADJUSTABLE VR and set it for 600 rpm

Deep cycle battery for Accessories.. regular battery for start and engine/ignition power

Mil1ion said:

It is doing that because the VR doesn't KICK IN until about 850 rpm...so at IDLE you are running at below ALT kick in.

It ISN'T the alternator.

Get yourself an ADJUSTABLE VR and set it for 600 rpm

Deep cycle battery for Accessories.. regular battery for start and engine/ignition power

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Umm Err Uh ...Whats a VR.....

TexasNomad said:

Umm Err Uh ...Whats a VR.....

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I know that one! Pick me! Pick me!

Voltage regulator.

I've never heard of or even seen a Adjustable VR.

Mil1ion said:

It is doing that because the VR doesn't KICK IN until about 850 rpm...so at IDLE you are running at below ALT kick in.

It ISN'T the alternator.

Get yourself an ADJUSTABLE VR and set it for 600 rpm

Deep cycle battery for Accessories.. regular battery for start and engine/ignition power

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I've never heard of anything like that Dennis... The alternator has to put SOME out power at ALL engine speeds, or else the truck would die when it's idling in the driveway.

Can you cite a source for this information?

I haven't seen a external VR since the very early 70s.

The alternator charges the battery and the battery runs the vehicle + accessories. This is why the vehicle doesn't die when stopped at a red light as well as why it will run if the alternator fails (until the battery goes dead). The purpose of the regulator is to maintain a fully charged battery.

TexasNomad said:

Those look very nice but those wont match up with any of my wiring
I was thinking more plug and play like this

http://www.jegs.com/i/Powermaster/713/8-47141/10002/-1

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I think you need to find a 1G alternator set up for two belts.
They made higher amp 1G alternators (generators) for your wiring setup and I would think any auto parts store could sell you one. You may even be able to find a high amp 1G at a salvage yard.

The wiring harness that has been pointed out for a 3G will not work on you truck with out some rewiring. They work great for replacing the 2G and the 3G but not for the 1G.
You will still have to upgrade the BATT wire from the 1G to the starter solenoid for a higher Amp 1G.
I am not sure if the one in you link above is wired for you truck either, but it would not put out what they are saying on one belt.

I have never heard of a regulator adjustable for engine RPM.

But here is one adjustable for voltage.



Here is a 100 Amp 1G Alternator from autozone that should work.


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Awesome but that Alt is for a 83 van will that work on a 79 f150 5.0?

TexasNomad said:

Awesome but that Alt is for a 83 van will that work on a 79 f150 5.0?

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According to the autozone site a DL7078 61 AMP alternator will fit a 79 f150 5.0, 83 f150 5.0 and an 83 E350 5.8 van.
So that tells me that the both of these trucks and the van can take the same alternator and use the same brackets and wiring.
So the DL73031-6-9 100 Amp fits the 83 E350 5.8 van there for it should also fit the 79 f150 5.0.

The 1G does not have the fire hazard (no plugs) that the 2G has so you do not have to worry about that.

So I would say yes it will fit your truck but you need to up size the BATT wire and the fuse link or fuse from the alternator to the starter solenoid. If your truck uses this wire for a SHUNT for the AMP meter also then of course you will have to splice into this wire at two points. If the large wire has a center splice load point with fuse links to other loads you will have to splice them in too at one of the points where one of the amp gauge wires took off from the wire.

You would have to do the same thing if you bought the harness from the other link posted as it had no place to hook a amp gauge or the load point away from the starter solenoid.

If your truck uses a light instead of a gauge then you would not have to worry about the two wires for the amp gauge. You then can use a shorter BATT wire but would still need the load point out in the middle of the wire for the headlights and so on unless you wanted to add wire to each of them and move them to the starter solenoid.

I know I'm a little late for this, but Lets not forget a good quality "Battery Isolator". If you still plan to add a second "AUX" battery. This configuration will allow only the primary to run the vehicle i.e. lights, wipers, signals. and the deep cycle "AUX" will run your high output additions without robbing the primary. This could also eliminate the need for the ALT change/upgrade.

Awesome thanks guys so very much for the help and advice.
And welcome Crash! to ftf