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Painless wiring installed in a '52 F1

Hello, I am assisting my brother update what was originally our great grandfathers 1952 F1 that my brother has been driving almost daily for 40 years. He has changed the front end, added disc brakes all the way around, had the '68 289 rebuilt,added DuraSpark ignition, new gauges, and here's the part where i come in the picture,added a Painless wiring harness( not 100% sure that name applies from my experience so far).

My problem is figuring out how to wire the Painless kit 10308 ignition to the original three post switch( all switch's are new exact replacements) with the separate push button start. The painless instructions list the connections below:

Brn/Pur or Wht/Blu¹ Start 919 Pur
Wht/Grn, Red/Grn, Ignition Coil (run) 931 Pnk
Wht/Blu or Brn/Pur
Red/Blu Ignition Coil (start) ² ----
Blk/Grn or Blk/Ylw Accessory Fuse Panel 932 Brn
Gry, Gry/Ylw, or Blk Ignition Switched Fuse Panel 933 Orn
Ylw Battery B+ 934 Red
NOTES:
1. Wire may be one of the colors shown, or some other color. See Paragraph 8.3.1.
2. Jumper to wire #931. See Paragraph 8.4.2.

My problem is the original ignition switch only has three post, one is marked coil, the other two are not marked......I'm not sure what wire goes where. I have everything else in the cab wired and working.

Has anybody used one of these wiring kits on an old truck with the original switch's? The Painless tech people have be less that helpful, in fact i'm more confused now than when I first started.....Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
One is going to be key hot, one is going to be coil hot,
Other could be hot feed from battery.
Hard to say without looking inside of the switch

Are you going to buy a new switch to put in? I would, due to the age of the original switch.
If so, you can dissect the old switch, and see what terminals go where.
Pictures help us determine things as well
 
You can also check with the testor as you turn the key in its position!
Turn key on like you are going to start mode,if a pole hits on tester,
but cuts of when you let off start mode,that will be for starter.

An with key left on,an the other pole stays hot,that would be for ignition.
Hope that helps!

But like said,might better with new ignition,sometimes they give wiring schematics.
 
Last edited:
Guys, All switch's are new. was going to get back to it Friday comparing the old and new switch's. Still there seems to be a lot more wires on the"Painless" harness than was on it before. Thanks for the input.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
There is a LOT more wires on the painless harness. It is designed for a 1980's key switch. your not going to be using all of them.

Do you still have the old switch?
 

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