Battery is PLENTY hot to crank the truck, but when I shut the ignition off, the accessory delay timer is overridden by the battery monitor and SYNC displays a message that warns me to turn off the ignition (after I'm holding the key in my hand) or start the engine. One would think that the key being out would signal that the ignition was off, and the thing to do is go ahead and turn off, but what do I know. Same issue, key in or not, so I'm thinking a miscalculation in the Battery Monitor. If I put the key in the ignition, and turn it to ON/ACC, the audio is overridden by a Low Battery warning, and will not come on until I crank the engine. Once the engine is running, all is good, except for the intermittent distortion in the left front door speaker, which I THINK is a separate issue. But, then again, I've never heard a busted speaker fix itself. Company vehicle, so I'm limited on options for resolution. It's still under warranty, but I'm too familiar with so-called warranty support that says in the fine print that they have to charge me for software issues or option support. Before I take it to a dealership (all of which in my area have a license to steal), just wondering if there's any inexpensive way to determine what exactly the battery monitor is monitoring, and why it thinks I have a defective battery. Company had an upfit done with a contractor's cap that has LED strips in it, but they all work just fine and turn off with the doors (on the cap) closed by means of prox switches mounted on the gas lifts. I also have a 700W inverter, which is properly fused and is turned off at all times until I need it. Upfitter did a LOUSY job installing it, but I relocated it to the contractor cap side box to make it more useful. Pity the idiots poked giant holes in a $300 Weatherite floor mat.

I like being smarter than the idiots working on my vehicle, so any tips/suggestions before I give in and take it to the dealer would be greatly appreciated. They SHOULD be able to install a replacement door speaker without screwing that up, but I'm sure I'll have a dramatic transmission failure or something after they replace my windshield wipers. The dealers around here could bust a steel ball with a rubber mallet in a sandbed, and lose the hammer after they break the handle out of it. It'll probably take at least 8 months for them to find the proper tool to remove the door panel, get the training to use it, and then actually do the work. I can't give up the truck for 6 weeks for them to do a 15 minute job.

Otherwise, I LOVE the 2014 SCREW 4X4, 5.0. Gobs of hosses, and a VERY impressive angry rumble from a stock exhaust.

Do you have both keys to the truck?
Try using the spare key, and see if the problem is still there
I'm thinking you may have an issue with your encoded key (pats)

dustybumpers said:

Do you have both keys to the truck?
Try using the spare key, and see if the problem is still there
I'm thinking you may have an issue with your encoded key (pats)

Click to expand...

Well now I AM confused. I learned the hard way not to manually unlock the door with the key, despite the door having a key hole on it. Apparently SYNC doesn't care if it was a slim jim that operated the lock or a mechanical key operation. SYNC didn't do it, so it gets hostile. If you do, you'll need to get in and start the engine VERY quickly. It will set off the alarm. I also have the keyless remote and keypad entry options, but seldom use the keypad. The only time the keypad is used is if I provide the code to someone I trust if they need something from the cab. But, I'm VERY curious, though, why the battery monitor system would behave differently based on who's driving the truck? I understand it using the key code for the MyKey function (speed limiter, blah blah), but the battery monitor? I don't have any MyKey profiles entered, because I'm the only person permitted to drive the truck by policy. The missus is also eligible, but she doesn't like it because it's similar to navigating a tugboat in a bathtub when you turn into a parking lot.

I go back to the "Turn OFF ignition" warning. The ignition being off is what started the timer for the accessories, and the key being out of the ignition switch is normally detected to shut the door chimes up and tell the system that you're not leaving the keys in the vehicle, in general. That seems to work, just not the BMS part that senses the key is not there and is OFF. While I enjoy the delayed off accessories, I have a 92 which does not have anything fancy on it, and it doesn't lay down and quit because of those fancy things.

I'll give the spare key a try, but I fail to see how it's going to resolve the BMS. The BMS is very mistaken, because the battery in the truck is no where near dead. It cranks VERY well. I've seen a lot of comments that these trucks have a lot of very nice features, but unfortunately, the undocumented features (aka bugs) that go with the software can tend to make the really cool features very annoying if not quite troublesome.

I also saw another comment about turning the light switch to "OFF" and not leaving it in Auto. First of all, OFF is not really OFF. The lights still come on momentarily when the ignition is turned on or off, and the DRL feature turns them on, regardless of the switch setting as soon as the truck is put in D. What is the point of Auto lights feature if they're not truly Auto? Again, one of those "undocumented features" that may be more detrimental than convenient.

I'm thinking I remember a pushed SYNC update sometime in November, which is about the same time the issue showed up. I remember getting in the truck one morning, and seeing an update warning, and the truck would not come out of park until the update finished. I didn't really have any issues before the update, so have to wonder why I needed it. It's a Microsoft product, though, and we all know how often they like to update. At first, it the warning would pop up after about 5 minutes. Now, about 3 seconds. It is degenerating, assuredly. I've not had a SINGLE instance where the truck would not start, and don't remember it sounding like it was having any difficulty doing so. I.E., I don't think there's any trouble with the battery. Just a very confused SYNC.

I'll dig out my account ID and log in to see what's going on inside the truck with a report. I'm thinking a trip to the dealer is in order, but I'm REALLY hoping I don't have to go to a stealership every 8 months or so. I will be getting FULL documentation on whatever was done for the repair, and will certainly show it to them if I have to go back.

I may also try the 8 hour charge trick this weekend. I have a good trickle charger (2A) that should do the trick. Assuming the battery charge level will let it actually force current through the battery. I do have a GPS in the truck, and really don't want to have to unplug that every time I stop too. I'm thinking a way to disable the BMS would be a lot better idea. Perhaps I can ask for that option too? I'm not real subject to leaving things on that will kill a 1000 CCA battery. That thing is HUGE. It should be able to power that little GPS for MONTHS with little or no impact to the battery. Turn off everything you can plug in if you want, but SYNC's still sitting there chewing on the battery. If the battery isn't sized to handle a phone charger LED, there's a problem.

dustybumpers said:

Do you have both keys to the truck?
Try using the spare key, and see if the problem is still there
I'm thinking you may have an issue with your encoded key (pats)

Click to expand...

One of those "whodathunkits". What the hell does the key have to do with the battery monitor? I wouldn't think that it could possibly matter which key was being used to drive the truck, but the suggestion to try the spare key was spot on. I understand the coded key for MyKey functions, etc, but I don't think anyone changes batteries when someone else drives the truck. I could be wrong, though. Not only did the issue COMPLETELY disappear on the first use of the spare key, but the one I normally use is now 'working' right again. Shut off ignition, remove key, 90 seconds later, the instrument panel and courtesy lamps turn off, exactly 10 minutes later, the stereo turns off. Power windows all functional during the 10 minute delay (which was the primary like for the accessory power delay). I can now put my windows up AFTER removing the key, but before opening the door, like it worked when new.

So, what else is coded to the key that probably shouldn't be? I like the conveniences, but the bugs scare me. What caused this? A static discharge getting out of the truck? The first little scare I had was when I got in the truck one morning headed for work, and the tranny wouldn't shift outta park, the engine shut off, and then I saw the message on the display. What the .....? OHHHH! SYNC was doing an update, and immobilized the truck. Wouldn't that be handy going down the road at 80 mph? I hope the hell that was a critical update, because that's also about the time I started having "weak battery" issues. Glad I didn't go running to a dealer and let them keep my truck for a lunch vehicle for 6 weeks.

When I had a "spare" key made, my normal driver key started acting up.
IDK, now I just go out about once every 3 months, and start the truck with all 3 keys.
I guess if that's all it takes to fix it, who am I to argue?

Glad to help out

Update on the Battery Saver problem, well, sort of. It's BAAAACK! Has been since about May/June this year. I've just been absent for a while because of rotator cuff surgeries and then building a new shop because my employer won't let me come back to work.

I purchased the truck from Fleet in June of 2020, because I didn't want to lose a good truck with low mileage (75K) on it, which has been in my possession since it was new. I still remember my first tank of fuel (36 Gallon tank) in May of 2014 cost $144 because of the Katrina inflated gas prices. Got the battery done just before a no-start condition in 2019, so dodged that bullet. I could hear the difference in the starter, and knew a plate in the battery was failing. A simple load test confirmed that for me at Advance Auto, but I couldn't buy their battery. I had to have it done at one of the authorized service centers or a dealership. I did not have it done at a stealership, but rather at a service center authorized by Fleet, meaning, it's HIGHLY unlikely that they did any diagnostics resets or anything of the sort. These hillbillies know how to mount tires and change oil, and that's about it, and certainly that's more than I want to trust them for. But, it belonged to someone else then, and I had to follow their instructions.

After the battery replacement, everything worked as designed and expected, for about 18 months, then started the bloody Battery Saver problem again about a month after I purchased the truck in 2019. I'm not really enthusiastic about replacing a $250 battery every few years, especially if it still cranks the truck. Has anyone found out how to disable the Battery Saver (for what little good it actually does) in FORScan? I can tell when a battery is going bad by simply listening to the starter. If I clean the terminals and the problem doesn't improve, I take the battery for a load test to find out if it's dying internally. I bought the FORScan software when I decided to add an OE trailer brake controller (the truck came with the towing package, but for some bizarre reason, no brake controller). Now I get the annoying "NO TRAILER ATTACHED" message, and SYNC claims there's no trailer back there regardless of one being there and the towing profile enabled. Supposedly, this can be fixed, so I put it on the back burner after I found the brake controller was actually working.

But back to the real problem at hand, that stinkin' Battery Saver. I was forced to swap keys back in June this year because the diaphragm on my primary key ruptured on the Unlock button, a tiny piece came out and got lost, and ultimately I have no unlock button on it now. I have no interest in carrying around two of those enormous keys, so please don't suggest it. The ONLY thing I can see that the battery saver firmware does is turn off a few tiny dash lamps (some of which are LED) and the stereo. I have no MyKey profiles set. I'm the only driver, unless I send the missus down the street, so having different driving profiles is about as useful as a screen door on a submarine. One would THINK battery saver firmware would target the power pigs like the power windows, headlights, and other heavy electrical loads if the battery is actually having a problem, maybe even the markers and trailer light circuits. But NOOOOOO, it's just gotta make a nuisance of itself by turning off my Sirius XM playing some great Classic Rock. And just how does it save a battery keeping the headlights on for a delayed off when it's dark? That would be the FIRST thing I'd disable if I made a battery monitor. I know I can instant off the headlights when I turn off the truck, but sometimes I stop in dark places and need to see where I'm going.

I'm looking to delve into this thing with FORScan a bit more, but my understanding is Ford moved a few things around and added a few more features as time progressed, just to try to keep the codes proprietary, so there's no one-size-fits-all list of the parameters. I captured and saved a factory setup before diddling anything, so I can always go back to what it was, as long as I don't shoot myself in the foot and crash part of the system. I did switch the DRL mode from headlights to signal/tail lights just to try something with it, so I know it works. I also 'enabled' trailer brake control, but that didn't work out as well as hoped. It applies the brake, but still won't detect my trailer and ignores No Trailer Attached in the settings. Still some wrinkles to work out with that. The DRL mod really won't make any difference other than a few less molecules of fuel used to power smaller lights by the alternator. But, it makes a good conversation piece with cohorts that have the same truck when they see mine works a little different. This site always pops up in that conversation.

Does anyone have a completer and more descriptive map or spreadsheet of all the wiggle bits and settings for the 2014 SCREW LWB 4x4 F-150 XLT? As much as I love playing with software, I don't want to kill my truck by turning off the wrong bit. There are a few things I'd like to tweak (like defaulting to Haul/Tow mode), but I'm not messing with performance or economy things any more than needed. I like the factory settings just fine with plenty HP for my needs, and the fuel mileage is around 15.5 - 16.0, so I don't want to mess with a good thing. I just want a little different automated control of the body and electrics because automotive engineers are not always right about how something should behave. I MIGHT eventually want to look at the PCM to see if I can see why 3rd gear shift is spongy and actually feels like two shifts. But it's solid enough when I've got my foot stuck in the throttle up to my knee.

Any takers?

You may need to reset the battery monitor. Usually when we replace the battery it gets reset. Also you can attempt a master reset on the sync system you should be able to find the option in the settings someplace.

d-kuzmen said:

You may need to reset the battery monitor. Usually when we replace the battery it gets reset. Also you can attempt a master reset on the sync system you should be able to find the option in the settings someplace.

Click to expand...

I reset the battery monitor, but the nuisance came right back. I'd rather just disable it. Kinda silly for a battery saver to turn off the stereo and leave the headlights on in my book, knowing what I know about how much the stereo draws versus the headlights. I have noticed that it's worse when I'm not driving long distances, i.e. using the starter more per run-hour. Most of my driving these days barely gives the truck time to warm up. I may try a little experiment. I'll hook up my battery charger while the engine's running, and see what happens when I turn it off then. From what I've read, it's supposed to look at total current drain over time, and battery voltage. Seems it may be set a bit too tight on the voltage, and if I could find a way to change that, I would. Again, I need better documentation on all the firmware settings to make some intelligent choices.

Other than the battery monitor and the hinky towing firmware, I don't have any issues. I brought the alarms for the trailer on myself by putting in a genuine OE brake controller. It works (tires lock up on the trailer when it's unloaded and the bias is above 2.0), but the software claims there's no trailer back there. I'll beg to differ. I just need to know what impedance the system is looking for in the brake circuits. Mine's pretty old, and the coil impedance may be too high for more modern brake controllers.