Join Our Ford Truck Forum Today

Document your Ford truck project here and inspire others! Login/Register to view the site with fewer ads.

Rocker Arms

3,121
67
Michigan
Hey, getting ready to fire up my new motor. I want to make sure the rocker arms are tightened down correctly. Ive adjusted rocker arms on a 350 chevy before and i had to turn the motor over so that both valves were closed, then torque.

But how would you go about it with ford motors? I found in my manual it just has a torque spec.

Motor is a 1995 351W
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
Yep, just torque them down!
 
3,121
67
Michigan
Thanks man, all torqued and ready to go!
 
It's not just torque and go.

When the cylinder is at TDC on compression stroke (both valves closed) you make sure the pushrod is seated in the lifter, you tighten the bolt by hand until the pushrod is barely snug between the rocker and lifter.


This next part is the important part:

You now torque the bolt to 20# but it HAS TO TURN OVER 1/4 but under one full turn.

If it takes more than 1 full turn you need to shim the pedestal.......if it's too tight, you need longer pushrods.


The above step has to be followed to prevent either burnt valves ot valves not fully opening......OR pushrods slipping off rockers at higher RPM.
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
Rocker Arm
Removal

Remove rocker arm attaching bolt, rocker arm seat (6A528), rocker arm (6564) and rocker arm fulcrum guide (6A588).






Installation

Apply Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-A to the top of the valve stem, the rocker arm seat and socket.
Install the rocker arm fulcrum guide, rocker arm, fulcrum and bolt. Tighten to 24-34Nm (18-25 lb-ft).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Rocker Arm
Removal

Remove rocker arm attaching bolt, rocker arm seat (6A528), rocker arm (6564) and rocker arm fulcrum guide (6A588).






Installation

Apply Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-A to the top of the valve stem, the rocker arm seat and socket.
Install the rocker arm fulcrum guide, rocker arm, fulcrum and bolt. Tighten to 24-34Nm (18-25 lb-ft).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



You are doing dis-service to the members here.


So the shims are just for decoration???


I'll shoot you a pic of some fugged up Cobra 1.7's (crane rockers) that were installed without proper lash if you don't believe me.

http://cranecams.com/pdf/453e.pdf
 
Last edited:

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
DOHC-- I don't claim to know anything about rockers but it does look to me like Dave (being a cert'd tech) copied and pasted that out of a repair manual... And I can't imagine he's using anything less than a genuine Motorcraft shop manual.

Continue discussion...
 
DOHC-- I don't claim to know anything about rockers but it does look to me like Dave (being a cert'd tech) copied and pasted that out of a repair manual... And I can't imagine he's using anything less than a genuine Motorcraft shop manual.

Continue discussion...


Then he's leaving something out.............
 
Last edited:

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
the complete article

Valve Spring, Retainer and Valve Stem Seal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
Valve Spring Compressor Tool T70P-6049-A


Removal

Broken valve spring (6513) or damaged valve stem seals (6571) and retainers may be replaced without removing the cylinder head (6049), provided damage to valve or valve seat has not occurred.

Remove valve cover (6582) as outlined.
Remove the applicable spark plug (12405) and bring the piston (6108) to the top of the bore to prevent accidental loss of the valve into the cylinder.
Remove the valve rocker arm fulcrum bolts, rocker arm seats (6A528), rocker arms (6564) and push rods (6565) from the applicable cylinder.
NOTE: Failure of the air pressure to hold the valve(s) in the closed position is an indication of valve seat damage and requires removal of the cylinder head.

Install an air line with an adapter in the spark plug hole and apply air pressure to the cylinder.
Install the fulcrum bolt and position Valve Spring Compressor Tool T70P-6049-A as shown. Compress the valve spring and remove the valve spring retainer key (6518), sleeve, retainer or rotator and valve spring.




Remove and discard the valve stem seal.
If air pressure has forced the piston to the bottom of the cylinder, any removal of air pressure will allow the valve(s) to fall into the cylinder. A rubber band, tape or string wrapped around the end of the valve stem will prevent this condition and will still allow enough travel to check the valve for binds.
Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve and check the valve stem tip for eccentric movement during rotation. Move the valve up and down through normal travel in the valve guide and check the stem for binds. If the valve has been damaged, it will be necessary to remove the cylinder head. Refer to cylinder head repair procedures in this section.
Installation

If the condition of the valve proved satisfactory, lubricate the valve stem with Motorcraft XO-10W30-QSP or DSP engine oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E. Hold the valve in the closed position and apply air pressure within the cylinder.
Install a new valve stem seal on the valve guide. Valve stem seals must be bottomed on guide. Place the valve spring in position over the valve and install the valve spring retainer and sleeve. Compress the valve spring and install the valve spring retainer keys. Remove the compressor tool and fulcrum bolt.




Lubricate the push rod ends with Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-A and install the push rod. Apply Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-A to the tip of the valve stem.
Apply Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-A to the rocker arms and rocker arm seats. Install the rocker arms, rocker arm seats and fulcrum bolts. Tighten to 24-34 Nm (18-25 lb-ft).
Turn off the air and remove the air line and adapter. Install the spark plug and connect the spark plug wire.
Clean and install the valve cover as described in this section.
............Dave is very correct. In stock, unmodified form, there is no shim. Shims come into play after springs are changed (adjusting installed height). 1.7 crane rockers, as far as I know, aren't ford factory parts. Stock parts require the instructions dave and I gave. It will put the pushrod half way into the bore of the lifter. Trying to adjust lash in a non-adjustable setup WILL cause engine damage.
 
Valve Spring, Retainer and Valve Stem Seal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
Valve Spring Compressor Tool T70P-6049-A


Removal

Broken valve spring (6513) or damaged valve stem seals (6571) and retainers may be replaced without removing the cylinder head (6049), provided damage to valve or valve seat has not occurred.

Remove valve cover (6582) as outlined.
Remove the applicable spark plug (12405) and bring the piston (6108) to the top of the bore to prevent accidental loss of the valve into the cylinder.
Remove the valve rocker arm fulcrum bolts, rocker arm seats (6A528), rocker arms (6564) and push rods (6565) from the applicable cylinder.
NOTE: Failure of the air pressure to hold the valve(s) in the closed position is an indication of valve seat damage and requires removal of the cylinder head.

Install an air line with an adapter in the spark plug hole and apply air pressure to the cylinder.
Install the fulcrum bolt and position Valve Spring Compressor Tool T70P-6049-A as shown. Compress the valve spring and remove the valve spring retainer key (6518), sleeve, retainer or rotator and valve spring.




Remove and discard the valve stem seal.
If air pressure has forced the piston to the bottom of the cylinder, any removal of air pressure will allow the valve(s) to fall into the cylinder. A rubber band, tape or string wrapped around the end of the valve stem will prevent this condition and will still allow enough travel to check the valve for binds.
Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve and check the valve stem tip for eccentric movement during rotation. Move the valve up and down through normal travel in the valve guide and check the stem for binds. If the valve has been damaged, it will be necessary to remove the cylinder head. Refer to cylinder head repair procedures in this section.
Installation

If the condition of the valve proved satisfactory, lubricate the valve stem with Motorcraft XO-10W30-QSP or DSP engine oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E. Hold the valve in the closed position and apply air pressure within the cylinder.
Install a new valve stem seal on the valve guide. Valve stem seals must be bottomed on guide. Place the valve spring in position over the valve and install the valve spring retainer and sleeve. Compress the valve spring and install the valve spring retainer keys. Remove the compressor tool and fulcrum bolt.




Lubricate the push rod ends with Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-A and install the push rod. Apply Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-A to the tip of the valve stem.
Apply Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-A to the rocker arms and rocker arm seats. Install the rocker arms, rocker arm seats and fulcrum bolts. Tighten to 24-34 Nm (18-25 lb-ft).
Turn off the air and remove the air line and adapter. Install the spark plug and connect the spark plug wire.
Clean and install the valve cover as described in this section.
............Dave is very correct. In stock, unmodified form, there is no shim. Shims come into play after springs are changed (adjusting installed height). 1.7 crane rockers, as far as I know, aren't ford factory parts. Stock parts require the instructions dave and I gave. It will put the pushrod half way into the bore of the lifter. Trying to adjust lash in a non-adjustable setup WILL cause engine damage.



Crane 1.7 Rockers are absolutely Ford OEM parts.....came standard on the 5.0 Cobra motors.

The shims are absolutely Ford OEM parts. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FMS-M-6564-B351&view=64&N=700+115




The above instructions pertain to a simple R and R of a spring with no other changes made.

I am asuming we are talking about a rebuilt motor in this thread....most likely a valve job or milled surfaces. Even if we weren't, it's just smart (and easy) to check for proper preload.


And adjusting the lash (which is the wrong word here, it should have been preload) to the proper specs cannot damage anything.





This thread is a prime example of an engine assembler vs an engine builder.
 
Last edited:

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
Just to answer your question I am both an assmebler and a builder, it depends on the setup. I don't remember seeing in this thread the type of rockers being used or the application of the engine in question. If this is a fairly stock 351 engine then the answer I gave is correct, now if you were talking about some 500 horse engine with all aftermarket parts my answer would have been different yes there would have been some added checks. I have built my fair share of motors without any problems.
 

flareside_thunder

Florida Chapter member
7,812
246
Yes it's a stock engine for those of you who haven't been catching up with what Mike did...he hydro locked his engine and bought a NEW crate engine...a factory one at that......Seeing as how this ISN'T a cobra engine (come on it's a 5.8 not a 5.0) and when I took my factory rockers OFF without any presence of shims......there probably aren't any.....
 
Just to answer your question I am both an assmebler and a builder, it depends on the setup. I don't remember seeing in this thread the type of rockers being used or the application of the engine in question. If this is a fairly stock 351 engine then the answer I gave is correct, now if you were talking about some 500 horse engine with all aftermarket parts my answer would have been different yes there would have been some added checks. I have built my fair share of motors without any problems.



First post clearly states it's a '95 351.........should be pedestal mount.

Now I did (ass/u/me) that it's a rebuild being that he said "new" and he was assembling it.


As stated previously, anything that could have changed installed valve height: valve job, milling etc.. All things common on a rebuilt motor.(not changing valve spring like stated prior) could change the preload.

That being said, even if it were all factory fresh, never rebuilt stuff, what's the harm in checking to make sure???

I think I'd do it on a crate motor from the factory just to make sure.....takes maybe all of 15 extra minutes once TDC is found at any cylnder and you follow the firing order.


The bottom line is by your own admission you did NOT know his set-up yet gave the advice to just tighten 'em down. Don't take it personal, but I feel that that wasn't good advice.


In my case, I had a "certified tech" install the Cobra rockers on my '95 GT.(car was in for warranty work and he flagged the extra hours on an overheating write-up, otherwise I would have done it)
He did not check preload and the valve stem hammered the crap out of the rocker body.

No 500HP motor, just Ford OEM rockers replacing the stock OEM stamped rockers.
 

flareside_thunder

Florida Chapter member
7,812
246
When i say factory i mean to stock specifications.....and DOHC in Dave's defense...which you clearly stated above, he has no idea the specs on the engine in question...so his automatic assumption would be to rattle off the instructions per stock engine...So...I think it'd be more the thread starters fault on this than anyone else's...no offense Mike; who should have provided more information than just what he had given to gather the answers for the question he asked in the beginning.
 
Factory crate engine? He told me it was a reman Auto Zone engine....



Even MORE reason to check!!!........LOL!!!!


Heck, I'd pull the pan and check main and rod clearances on it just for grins and giggles.smiliestirthepot


When i say factory i mean to stock specifications.....and DOHC in Dave's defense...which you clearly stated above, he has no idea the specs on the engine in question...so his automatic assumption would be to rattle off the instructions per stock engine...So...I think it'd be more the thread starters fault on this than anyone else's...no offense Mike; who should have provided more information than just what he had given to gather the answers for the question he asked in the beginning.



Let's say one is too lazy to do the install as I've outlined......2 other faults with "just tighten them down" come to mind.

1) There was no torque spec. given and...

2) Trying to "just tighten them down" without having that hole at TDC may have you trying to compress a spring while tightning.
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
First post clearly states it's a '95 351.........should be pedestal mount.

Now I did (ass/u/me) that it's a rebuild being that he said "new" and he was assembling it.


As stated previously, anything that could have changed installed valve height: valve job, milling etc.. All things common on a rebuilt motor.(not changing valve spring like stated prior) could change the preload.

That being said, even if it were all factory fresh, never rebuilt stuff, what's the harm in checking to make sure???

I think I'd do it on a crate motor from the factory just to make sure.....takes maybe all of 15 extra minutes once TDC is found at any cylnder and you follow the firing order.


The bottom line is by your own admission you did NOT know his set-up yet gave the advice to just tighten 'em down. Don't take it personal, but I feel that that wasn't good advice.


In my case, I had a "certified tech" install the Cobra rockers on my '95 GT.(car was in for warranty work and he flagged the extra hours on an overheating write-up, otherwise I would have done it)
He did not check preload and the valve stem hammered the crap out of the rocker body.

No 500HP motor, just Ford OEM rockers replacing the stock OEM stamped rockers.
The advice we (certified techs) give here, is admittedly basic. Dave and I have been through countless hours of engine building, engine diagnostics, and engine performance. If we needed to give EVERY detail of engine building, our posts would be thousands of characters long. Yes, we have used a torque wrench with the appropriate tools to measure spring tension and installed height. Yes, we have ground down the spring seats to accommodate longer springs. Dont assume automatically that someone doesn't know what they are doing.
 

d-kuzmen

Master Ford Tech
2,109
79
Connecticut
First post clearly states it's a '95 351.........should be pedestal mount.

Now I did (ass/u/me) that it's a rebuild being that he said "new" and he was assembling it.


As stated previously, anything that could have changed installed valve height: valve job, milling etc.. All things common on a rebuilt motor.(not changing valve spring like stated prior) could change the preload.

That being said, even if it were all factory fresh, never rebuilt stuff, what's the harm in checking to make sure???

I think I'd do it on a crate motor from the factory just to make sure.....takes maybe all of 15 extra minutes once TDC is found at any cylnder and you follow the firing order.


The bottom line is by your own admission you did NOT know his set-up yet gave the advice to just tighten 'em down. Don't take it personal, but I feel that that wasn't good advice.


In my case, I had a "certified tech" install the Cobra rockers on my '95 GT.(car was in for warranty work and he flagged the extra hours on an overheating write-up, otherwise I would have done it)
He did not check preload and the valve stem hammered the crap out of the rocker body.

No 500HP motor, just Ford OEM rockers replacing the stock OEM stamped rockers.


I do enough reading to know it's a 351, I was assuming stock valvetrain due to the fact he didn't mention aftermarket. There is no harm in doing it but thats not what he asked. Sorry to hear about your GT are you sure it wasn't driver error? Im done here.......
 

Ford Truck Articles

Top