I got the Block, Crank, Rods and pistons back from the machine shop today and will start putting her together. I should have the heads in a few day.

Hopefully the customer has got the bearings and gaskets needed to start the build. I hate it when they buy the parts, most of the time there wrong and it just waists my time, will see.


I hope some of you will find this of some interest...

What all are they having done to it?

Keep this thread updated! I look foward to watching it progress.

Ryan

dragogt said:

What all are they having done to it?

Click to expand...

Well lets see. By the way this is a budget build for sure. the block should have been bored or replaced(bad rust in #4 I think), the crank was already turn .010 .010 so I just had it polished... Plus I'm using some 351W main bearing I had laying around from a previous build, had maybe 10 minutes run time on them.

I ported a set of 74 351C heads (much better exhaust port than the 75 351M/400 heads) with one piece ss 2.07 and 1.65 valves, cleaned up the chambers and polished them. Also cleaned up the oil return path under the covers. I'll have to cc the chambers once I get them back, might have to mill them, not sure.

ground and polished the lifter valley for better oil return to the pan

Piston are (Step Dish) Hypereutectic 1.720" C.H.
Part number TMI/KB2347-30
web site http://www.tmeyerinc.com/cart400pistons.htm

ARP Rod Bolts, stock rods

cam kit with 204 214 @.050 duration

Cloyes timing set

Comp Cams retainers and locks, stock rockers and push rods

performer 4v intake

Holley 600vs carb

Duraspark distributor re curved, MSD box and coil

Long tube 1-3/4 headers

I'll be sure to post pics as I go

Are you going to use a stud kit for the main caps?

I didn't know that M/W mains were interchangeable.

It does sound like a budget build for sure, how bad is /was the rust in that cyl?

DNFXDLI said:

Are you going to use a stud kit for the main caps?

Click to expand...

Nope...........

dragogt said:

I didn't know that M/W mains were interchangeable.

It does sound like a budget build for sure, how bad is /was the rust in that cyl?

Click to expand...

Ya they are the same main bearing and the cylinder is bad, if it were mine I would look around for another block and bore it .030 but this guy is tight...

He is buying parts before I can check to see what he needs, would have been nice to get .040 pistons and rings.

Kinda like, putting the cart before the horse ant it?

dragogt said:

Kinda like, putting the cart before the horse ant it?

Click to expand...

It's happened before, I built a 302 for a guy and he bought a engine kit before I had a chance to check it out... needed the crank turned and the block bored... needless to say he had to return it and get another one.


Just got back from the shop... no gaskets and NO rod bearings... guess I'll start on it when I have the rod bearings... Oh shiiit I should have asked about the oil pump... might just use the old one ..

Bet it gets expensive doing it that way, Ah well live and learn.

Ok to the shop this morning and started doing whatever I could.. no rod bearings or gaskets yet!!!!

Started with the distributor, I set the mechanical advance for 20* so I can set initial to 16 to 18... will see how it likes that. I also took the bigger fat spring out and put just enough tension on the smaller spring to keep it against the stop.

I filled the slot to .410









Next I took a heat sink from an old computer and ground it down flat so I could install a HEI module for the ignition system. I have had this kit for about 6 years sitting in a box so I decided to give it to Eric for his truck.









That should keep it cool...


Next I happen to notice the 400 performer intake in the corner and it looked like it had rectangle ports, for a minute I thought it was thew wrong intake but it's not... WTF why did they make an intake with rectangle ports for a head that has oval ports... I'm thinking of opening up the intake to match the heads, it's not like I'm making a bulge in the runner like you would if you were gasket matching the same shape port. I would be simply blinding the intake port to the bigger port in the head.

What are your thought on this???








Here is a few pics of the lifter valley, I ground it down to a shine and grooved the sides to let the oil return faster to the drain hole in the middle, witch had a huge hump all the way around it???

I wish I had got some pictures before I started on it......









This is the bad cylinder... can you say budget build....lol



He walked into the shop just before I was leaving with the gaskets and bearing so I'll have something to do tomorrow...


What are your thought on the valley pan gasket?

I don't like them cause it makes it harder to gasket match the intake...

See you tomorrow. Steve

Ugh, I wouldn't even build the engine if the guy doesn't even want to spend the money to do the job right the first time! It going to cost him more money in the future, and he won't have a very reliable and long lasting engine. If you build engines for people on a regular basis, you might receive some bad rep because the engine didn't last long, due to the customer being a cheap @ss! I'm sure you do good work, and you want to keep it that way.

Remove the rust from the lifter valley and apply some motor oil to the valley to stop rust from forming. That crap will get in your motor. Otherwise your cleaning up of the valley looks good. Do NOT re-use the oil pump as I'm sure its seen a lot of wear. A stock replacement is cheap and is good insurance against problems.

the rough spot is where the rusted part was??, i hope this was before the overboring was done....

A little history...

The motor was rebuilt a while ago hence the .030 over bore and the .010 X .010 crank. When he got it the motor was stuck, a little effort with a breaker bar and lube and he got it to turn over. It ran good didn't smoke or rap had good oil pressure.

He bought the pistons before I noticed the rust in the #4 hole, sucks to build it like this but it's going together. The pic is after a honing it's going to have to be good enough cause he's not boring the $$$$ is not there.


I've got some more grinding to do to the block so I left the valley dry until I'm done grinding. I have to relieve the the bores for the intake valves. When I ported the heads I un-shrouded the intake valves so I have to do the same to the block. No sense doing the heads if your not going to do the block.

When I built my Clevor (351C heads on a 351W) the exhaust valves were rubbing on the cylinder walls. I never read anything online about relieving the bores for the valves on a Windsor block, live and learn.





After I relieved the block...





The 400 block has reliefs cut into the block already but the intake relief needs to be matched to the gasket like I did the chambers in the heads. It don't take much time to do and it should make for better flow into the cylinder...


I should have some updates later tonight, not sure how much I'll get done today I smashed my thumb with a 3lbs hammer yesterday.

what car is that in pic number two of the first series of pics on this page???

At 1st glance I thought it was a clothes dryer, then I saw the tire

It's a 1961 PV544 Volvo I use to own. I put a EFI B21 198? engine and trans in it. Then I cut it up to make a racer out of it, never finished it I got Divorced and had to sell it.

Looks like a 47 ford from the front....

How did you know you had your valves rubbing against your cylinder walls?

I guess if your rings are sealing its fine, but No4 cyl ring could worn faster....