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"bleed valve" stuck

so I dont know if they're the right name for them but that is what I am calling them. I need to bleed my brakes as I just changed my MC and now my brake falls to the floor more or less when I touch it ( i am assuming because a lot of air is in the line)

well I went to bleed the brakes and I cant turn the valve to let the air out if I wanted to, I dont want to brake it I sprayed some wd-40. I am quite frustrated at it right now. I am using an open ended 3/8's and i have tried with no luck. Once I felt i almost got it and the wrench just slid around the nut and I dont want to destroy the nut itself.
 

blacksnapon

Moderator
Staff member
Yeah, that happens quite a bit. The way you're doing it is just about the only way to do it. Just keep trying it. If it breaks, its just wheel cyl replacement.
 

john112deere

caffeine junkie
Staff member
10,807
405
central Vermont
On my truck, I used a 6-pt deep socket to initially loosen the bleeders on the rear wheels, since they were rusty and didn't want to move. It doesn't work to actually bleed them, but it's the best tool I have for turning things without damage.

One snapped clean off (parts were cheap and on the shelf at Napa, though), the other came free, then I used an open-end wrench to bleed it.
 
Use a small propane torch and heat the area around the bleeder screws before gingerly trying to loosen them.

Did you Bench bleed the M/C first ?
 
No I didnt bench bleed it because I didnt know that, it would have been smart. So I have to take it all apart and bench bleed it, then blah blah blah lol :) but still those valves are stuck so a propane torch? just like what 20 seconds on it?
 

smokey

Hitech hillbilly
Staff member
NO you can bleed the MC on the truck you just need to get the MC bleeder kit. They are nothing but little plastic lines that screw in to the MC and reach back up to the MC fluid bowls.
 
I used an old brake line that I cut in half. Each end had a fitting to screw into the master cylinder. I formed the tubing into almost a circle so the fluid would squirt back into the top and fill it up as I went.


I forgot to bench bleed mine and was not about to drive the 12 miles each way into town again for a kit. LOL
 

bucks77ford

We will Rise Again
You may want to consider replacing those Wheel Cylinders anyway if the bleeders are that rusted. I know they can be a PITA sometimes though and the cylinders are still good. But, being they aren't that expensive and easy to replace, you may be better in the long run. However, why replace something that don't need replacing.

I hated replacing all the brakes, M/C, wheel cylinders, booster, lines, and proportioning valve on my truck. Bending the lines is a pain and so is trying to get to the point of no leaks.
 
Yeah, I am fortunate I dont have an leaks anywhere. I checked my brake booster it was nice and dry, all my wheels are fine, just my MC was junk.

The wheel cylinders are actually not that old, which is why I am curious to why those are "rusted" on. I dunno, I am at the point where I dont want to be doing more work. I checked my cylinders and they looked good, but you're right it might be good to replace them anyhow
 

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