So I finally got around to getting the frame ready on the new plow truck. Here are some pics. Gotta finish it up in the next few days. Got all the grunt work done today.

Holy crap that was some rust!

Hell yeah!! Looking good!!

Im going to put the flat bed on it, and say good bye lmao

spring Perch holes drilled, cross-member welded in, and some holes where the old frame and new frame meet just for extra strength!




Sold the stock bed off this truck today so I didnt get much work done as we had to load it into truck, and yea he didnt bring a trailer.

Well I bolted the spring perch on and shackles. Then moved truck out so I could seep the floor.


Filled a 5 gal bucket up with rust lmao

It's amazing how much better a project looks when the area is swept up.
Your work looks good to.

Aside from literally trashing your vehicle via collision, plowing has got to be the TOUGHEST thing you can do to a truck.

Ryan

I think it was a salt truck, as the front frame is still really solid unlike the rear!

Ready for aluma bed test fit. Everything Mounted and bolted down, not tight but enough to know it will fit and work. Finished with new shock mount, there the 80-97 Style ones. And bolted the overload spring perch on also.

Everything looks smooth so far, great job! Salt and moisture really made a good bite.

Yea I def didnt know what I was thinking when I decided to buy this truck, oh well, must press on and finish what I started

what kind and brand drill bits did you use to drill through that steel?? seems like no matter what i get i cant get any thatll drill nicely through thick steel...

They are the most expensive ones from Harbor Freight. I start real small like 3/16 then work my way up jumping 1 bit size at a time, that works for me most of the time.

http://www.harborfreight.com/115-piece-cobalt-drill-bit-set-47653.html

Yep, gotta work your way up. Can't typically go through as a single pass. I step it a little faster, start around 3/16, then jump to 5/16-3/8, then to 1/2.The 1/2 will walk around and generally lose the edge if you try making it in one pass. Even the 3/8 won't tend to do real well on a single run, the 3/16 pilot is important.

95F350XL said:

They are the most expensive ones from Harbor Freight. I start real small like 3/16 then work my way up jumping 1 bit size at a time, that works for me most of the time.

http://www.harborfreight.com/115-piece-cobalt-drill-bit-set-47653.html

Click to expand...

how quick were they? meaning was it taking forever to drill through or did it go though like you were drilling through wood?

Fellro said:

Yep, gotta work your way up. Can't typically go through as a single pass. I step it a little faster, start around 3/16, then jump to 5/16-3/8, then to 1/2.The 1/2 will walk around and generally lose the edge if you try making it in one pass. Even the 3/8 won't tend to do real well on a single run, the 3/16 pilot is important.

Click to expand...

ohh i know.. my problem is i do alot of not only hard steel drilling but thick steel. but can never find a decent drill bit anymore. Have tried titanium nitride coated, cobalts, different mfgs of both.. all results the same.. either gets halfway through the material then stops cutting or doesnt even want to start to begin with...

have thought a few times of getting them drill dr things and seeing if i can fix the ones that snapped or became dull..

The titanium coated ones are a joke. Once you sharpen them, the coating is gone. When I used to work as a welder, they place I worked had some awesome bits. Biggest thing is to keep the sharp and cool. Once they get heated, they go dull. You don't want too steep of a bite either, they will fail faster. We actually used to use an upright belt sander to sharpen them.

Fellro said:

The titanium coated ones are a joke. Once you sharpen them, the coating is gone. When I used to work as a welder, they place I worked had some awesome bits. Biggest thing is to keep the sharp and cool. Once they get heated, they go dull. You don't want too steep of a bite either, they will fail faster. We actually used to use an upright belt sander to sharpen them.

Click to expand...

found that out the first time i used em... snapped 3 of them.. great for soft woods and plastics... crap for anything else...

ive been wanting an upright sander.. but dont have the room for it... nor a horizontal band saw...

welders what i actually went to school for... pretty good at it... but couldnt get work doing it here... stupid catch 22's

Wow, welding is something that is pretty much everywhere...

Fellro said:

Wow, welding is something that is pretty much everywhere...

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wasnt saying there arent those kind of jobs here... its just they dont want to hire people with "limited experience" like i have.. through the school i have the equivalent to 1 yrs experience. everyone hiring wants 10+yrs. (catch 22 i was referring too.. need exp to get the jobs but cant get the jobs to get the exp).. and they know they can get those people with all the retired military in the area.. which i dont call them guys welders.. theyre burners not welders.. every time i see some "welders" from the military welds theyre pretty suckish..