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Help Please

SuperCab

Moderator
Staff member
10,068
547
Montana
I would definitely verify that the timing is set right before you chase other things. If you're too far advanced you'll for sure have detonation.

As far as the egr, pictures would help but unless you live in a state where you have to pass inspection my advice would be to delete/disable the egr. They were nothing but trouble on these older trucks for the most part
 
I would definitely verify that the timing is set right before you chase other things. If you're too far advanced you'll for sure have detonation.

As far as the egr, pictures would help but unless you live in a state where you have to pass inspection my advice would be to delete/disable the egr. They were nothing but trouble on these older trucks for the most part
Thanks for the advice.

Here are a few pics.

3902f658f345ecdfb7bf9d2c489dd8a6.jpg
8137043487c36a941fc2c6628d83fc3b.jpg
2669b51a1649993068248f91d5d21a0c.jpg
782869e8e83649440cb4107a2ca557c6.jpg


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SuperCab

Moderator
Staff member
10,068
547
Montana
I'm not seeing any egr setup in the pictures. Verify your timing isnt over advanced and check that you don't have vacuum leaks and I'd bet it will run pretty good
 

Jasperrc

Texas Chapter member
I'm not seeing any egr setup in the pictures. Verify your timing isnt over advanced and check that you don't have vacuum leaks and I'd bet it will run pretty good

Yeah, I'd get plugs on all the vacuum ports that are not hooked up to something.YelloThumbUp
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
Also check the rubber plugs that are on there already. Those tend to rot right at the end of the plug over time.
 
Thanks y'all.

I pulled the hose off the egr.....I thought it was the egr. Isn't that the port on the left valve cover towards the rear? It was going to the left side of the carb. He said to put it to the front if anything because my crankcase pressure or vaccuum is off causing smoke to rise up through the oil filler port. Will try to mess with it this evening if I get off early enough and it isn't raining.

My guy said to check vacuum at the distributor and if constant then disconnect because wrong. He also said to like y'all, to turn back the timing a little and run it down the road to see if it helps.



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fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
The tube on the left valve cover is a vent for the valve cover. It normally goes to a connection on the side of the air cleaner housing. The EGR would be located between the carburetor and the intake manifold. It is normally a plate about 1/2 inch thick.

Look at page 29-01-4 in the Gen 6 maintenance manual section under emissions. It shows a drawing of the EGR valve on a 460 engine. It is the round metal diaphragm toward the back of the engine underneath the carb mounting plate. There should be a vacuum line that runs to the EGR valve.
 
The tube on the left valve cover is a vent for the valve cover. It normally goes to a connection on the side of the air cleaner housing. The EGR would be located between the carburetor and the intake manifold. It is normally a plate about 1/2 inch thick.

Look at page 29-01-4 in the Gen 6 maintenance manual section under emissions. It shows a drawing of the EGR valve on a 460 engine. It is the round metal diaphragm toward the back of the engine underneath the carb mounting plate. There should be a vacuum line that runs to the EGR valve.

He did mention a delete plate or egr plate. I'll look at what you referenced. The vent on the valve cover not being hooked up to the air cleaner couldn't contribute to the detonation could it?

I don't mean to be so ignorant. Thanks for all the help.


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fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
I don't think the vent line would have anything to do with detonation. My limited experience says detonation is a timing issue as Supercab stated.
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
Pretty sure there is supposed to be a plate/spacer under the carb that was what the EGR would mount to. I have seen occasions that motors get warm enough to boil gas out of the carb, and the fix for such? Spacer plate. Had a 454 Chev that I had to double up the carb gaskets which on that one were about 1/4" thick. Might pick up anaftermarket spacer/adapter and get that space back if can't find an egr plate. It also helps with fuel atomization a bit.

Some of it also sounds like the carb itself may be gummed up and nasty from sitting. Nice thing with the Edelbrock(Carter) carbs is that they are VERY easy to service. A friend recently bought a camper that was sitting for a few years and had one on it. He hadn't dealt with them so didn't know how to work on them, so I took it apart and it was just total varnish inside. Did manage to get it cleaned up and worked just fine. The fuel overflow sounds like it had stuck a float or needle. Those have 2 floats and needles in them. You just take the top off the carb and everything is right there.
 
Hope everyone is well.

After attempting to get truck road worthy, and putting it through it's paces it is evident that it is burning a lot of oil. This truck must first and foremost be reliable as it will be my primary/ only/ work truck. What is the best solution? Am I correct to assume a rebuild of the 460 is in order? Oil getting past the rings isn't going to be fixed without removal of pistons is it? So it is rebuild, I think, or possibly swap with 390 out of 72 250. The 390 is strong but did leak oil; but I'm thinking an oil leak would be addressed with the transfer of the engine into the 78 150....are the mounts the same and in the same location between these blocks and trucks?




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BKW

Ford Parts Guru
Pic: 1978/79 F150/350 & E250/350 460 EGR related parts:

20180526121611FPS-8096-B.jpg
 

Fellro

Moderator
Staff member
Hope everyone is well.

After attempting to get truck road worthy, and putting it through it's paces it is evident that it is burning a lot of oil. This truck must first and foremost be reliable as it will be my primary/ only/ work truck. What is the best solution? Am I correct to assume a rebuild of the 460 is in order? Oil getting past the rings isn't going to be fixed without removal of pistons is it? So it is rebuild, I think, or possibly swap with 390 out of 72 250. The 390 is strong but did leak oil; but I'm thinking an oil leak would be addressed with the transfer of the engine into the 78 150....are the mounts the same and in the same location between these blocks and trucks?




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Pretty much nothing is common between FE motors and any other family of motors. The motor towers would have to be changed as well, transmission also must come along. I'm not certain if the motor mount towers from the 72 would work on the 78 frame. Then you also have the points vs electronic ignition to deal with.
 
Pretty much nothing is common between FE motors and any other family of motors. The motor towers would have to be changed as well, transmission also must come along. I'm not certain if the motor mount towers from the 72 would work on the 78 frame. Then you also have the points vs electronic ignition to deal with.
Crap.

Thanks.

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Would it be better to buy a reman 68 era 460 for a Lincoln Continental with no smog or one specifically for the 78 pick-up?

Same price pretty much minus the core maybe.

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On a side note; I'm selling my 72 camper special.....for about $500 bucks. I live in Louisiana if anyone knows anybody who isn't scared of a lot of work and potential.....the value of these trucks is going up steadily......still considering keeping it, but I'm not a mechanic or body guy (not that there is much mechanically wrong with it).....and can't find a hood for it without buying another one which I just can't do right meow....yes I said meow.....watch super troopers....

peace

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Was changing plugs, and changing thermostat down to a 160° on my 78 460 and I noticed that the plugs I got for this engine didn't match. They were way smaller, taking a 5/8" and not a 3/4 socket. I went back to the store thinking they pulled the wrong item, but that wasn't the case. I told him to pull the ones for a 69 Lincoln; and they matched... So I'm confused. Does anyone have any ideas? Are there engine identification codes I can locate on the block or heads?

Thanks

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Was changing plugs, and changing thermostat down to a 160° on my 78 460 and I noticed that the plugs I got for this engine didn't match. They were way smaller, taking a 5/8" and not a 3/4 socket. I went back to the store thinking they pulled the wrong item, but that wasn't the case. I told him to pull the ones for a 69 Lincoln; and they matched... So I'm confused. Does anyone have any ideas? Are there engine identification codes I can locate on the block or heads?

Thanks

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Hey i dont know your location, or if youre still looking for a good ol work truck, but i got a 77 id let go to a good home. It was my DD past 4 years, all it needs is a brake line to be road worthy again. 77 F250 camper special with a 400/C6 and 2wd

Oops. Never mind. Just seen your in louisiana. Im clear up in mi.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
Might be worth his while to get a shipping quote
 

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