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Water pump and timing chain cover

1995 f150 5.8L 259k

Hey guys! I bite the bullet and started tearing things apart to get to the timing chain cover gasket coolant leak I have had for a while. I have some questions about parts:
-I already replaced the water pump 3 years ago, so it’s rather new, but it’s from rock auto. It looks good and I think I could re-gasket it and it would be fine, but for how long? Should I just replace it while I’m in there? If so, should I go with a better part, maybe from NAPA?
-All the long bolts are pretty corroded and pitted in the straight non thread parts. I cleaned them all up, but should I just get new ones? I’m worried the thread of brand new bolts could lead to more problems, if I could even find the right ones.
-The timing chain cover has a small line on the inside, possible hairline crack. When I rub my fingernail over it, you can definitely feel it. Should I still reuse it or just buy a new one so I don’t have to worry about it cracking and leaking on me later? It is not currently leaking at the line and it doesn’t show to the outside.
-Lastly, should I do anything with the double roller chains while I’m this deep? I don’t really want to and they look fine. I plan to do an engine rebuild at some point, so if they could just last until then...

Thanks!
 

heavydoc

Instigator
Staff member
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I don't know much about the gas engine side of things, but maybe @dustybumpers will be along shortly and can give you some good advice
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
There is a bolt kit for this, I recommend it.save the short bolts out of the top of your set from the water pump, they aren't included. Wire brush will clean them up Tap all the holes in the block. That gives you a nice good start.
I would replace the timing cover. Dont take a chance on cracks.

If you take your fingers in the center of the gears on the chain, and squeeze together, and both sides move towards each other more than 1/2 " replace the chain.

Simple job when down as far as you are.
Put the damper bolt back in the end of the crank, turn the engine over by hand until the dots in the 2 gears line up. Take the damper bolt out, take the bolts out of the cam gear, remove the chain and gears, put the new one back in.

As far as the water pump, the gasket kit comes with the gaskets, take it open, inspect the impeller, feel the bearing ,if you think you can trust it reuse it


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fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
Did you replace the fan clutch when you replaced the water pump? A worn fan clutch can also make short life of a water pump.
 
Ok, so I’m looking at new bolts and cover!

I haven’t replaced the fan clutch, but I will check it out.

Now for the easy question, do you put rtv on the oil pan seal? The half circle that mates on to the timing chain cover. I know you put rtv in the corner where that seal meets the corner seals, but do you rtv the semi circle seal like you do the other gaskets?

Thanks!!
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
Your going to get 2 small pieces of cork gasket for the pan too, that goes on the timing cover.
I use a thin bead weather strip cement in the timing cover where the rubber goes. Put the rubber in, then put a thin layer perm a gasket on the rubber and the pan.
Just to make sure nothing leaks.

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heavydoc

Instigator
Staff member
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WNC
In my opinion it should be replaced while you are there at it. It does appear to be a little more slack than I'm used to seeing. But you know 6 of one half dozen of another
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
I would replace it to be honest.
That's pretty good wear. Could go for a while longer, BUT why take a chance of it jumping a tooth or 2, then you have to tear it down again.

I think rockauto has one for like $20

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Ok, looks like the rock auto “heavy duty” is an exact replacement, I’ll replace chain too.

Also, just realizing the difference between standard and reverse rotation... I have a smooth pulley and the reverse coolant passages on the cover, so I'm pretty sure I'm reverse. The last water pump I put on was GATES 43057 from Rock Auto and it says it’s standard...have I had the wrong water pump on for 3 years?!!
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
Lol. I doubt it. Reverse rotation is serpinten belt, standard is v belt. Check which way that your belt goes around the pulley, and direction it turns.
I seriously doubt you were running a pump backwards, as when you take the old one open you will see the impeller is directional.
If you were running one backwards, it would not have pumped the water and would have overheated

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So I’m reading another guy did the same thing and that the pump IS REVERSE just labeled confusingly. The flat blades point Right, so I think I’m good?

Next issue, the oil pan corner silicon stock gaskets...some tore off when I removed cover and I did get new cork ones, but do people cut the old silicon ones off before applying the cork or put cork over these? They appear to be part of a one piece gasket, so I would need to cut it at the block. However, it appears to be metal with silicon...how do people cut these?
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
Small zip gun, or a hacksaw blade in a handle. Use a vacuum cleaner at the area cutting.
If you leave those ends it will leak really bad.
Just take your time. All kinds a room to work in there.....lol


And yes on the waterpump
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Well that sounds like a good time, I’ll get started on it tomorrow.

I really appreciate you helping me stumble through this real time, thanks dustybumpers!!!
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
No problem
One day you can help someone else.

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So I’ve got all my new parts except the timing cover, I can’t seem to find an exact match and even the stealership doesn’t have one. My main concern is all the new ones are missing this tab on the side that mine has, but I have no idea what it’s for, if anything. So maybe it doesn’t matter??

https://youtu.be/ukb-qy0jkGA
 

heavydoc

Instigator
Staff member
1,994
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WNC
I would say is for an optional accessory you ain't got, or a different engine configuration. If you don't need it and it's not being used, I wouldn't worry about it.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
Cant open on my phone, I'll have a look this evening


Never mind. Finally got it to open.
No worries on the tab. That is drilled out for cam timing position sensor on maf trucks.
You dont need it you still have a map computer
 
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Ok...so got the new chain on while at TDC. Everything was lined up perfectly but while tightening the cam bolt the engine rotated. I’m still good right? Truck is no longer at TDC, but since the chain and gears were on they rotated together? I don’t need to match up to TDC again do I?
 

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