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'73 EB Won't Start!!!! HELP!!! I Think I've Tried Everything but I Hope Not!

Hi guys,
I checked numerous posts relative to starting issues, timing gears & chain, dizzy's,, ignition issues, starter solenoid, etc... but found nothing to answer my issues so here goes: It had been sitting since '97. Put new rear tank,, fuel sending unit & gauge & fuel pump on, put a little gas in carburetor, new battery & it started right up. The points burned up due to a faulty starter solenoid so, I replaced it. Put new points in but one of the hold down screw holes was stripped so, put a washer in with new points (they stayed in place but were a little loose. Next, New Master & wheel cylinders, stainless brake lines, hoses, new tires, & a 4 row racing radiator. Ran like a champ for several weeks then, shortly after cranking/starting up I descended down a small incline in a driveway & it stalled. Put in neutral & cranked/started right back up & ran solid & smooth on the next 10 miles. Stopped @ a red light & went dead again, neutral & cranked/started right up & got me home. Next day, it cranked/started right up & after driving 5+/- miles it began to stall & steam was coming from engine bay. Opened the hood & the top radiator hose was collapsed. At this point I ordered a new distributor & top radiator hose because I knew the loose points were an issue. Replaced the distributor & hose, got it as close to TDC as possible (the only marks I could find on my original harmonic balancer was "ATC" & about an inch away what looked like a "10"(?)). I drove it 65-75 mph at times going to parts store to get a timing light. After returning home & trying to exact the timing, I drove it around neighborhood 10+x's (after moving 1/16" to 1/8" to either side). During which point it suddenly wouldn't run at all it would only sit & spin/turn over. Thinking it was out of gas I put around 2 gallons in from my gas can & drove (sputtering all the way) to the store & it only held 9 gallons (13 gallon rear tank ONLY) so, obviously it wasn't out of gas). Got it back home & it was sluggish all the way but made it. Since then, it wouldn't stay cranked/running. Sometimes when slightly adjusting the distributor to either side it would stay cranked/running once out of 50 or so times for about 10 seconds & then go dead. Since that point, I have replaced the following & checking between every change made before going to the next: 1. Plugs (NO DIFFERENCE), 2. plug wires (NO DIFFERENCE) (Yes, the wires are in the right location), 3. distributor cap (NO DIFFERENCE), 4. rotor button (NO DIFFERENCE), 5. oil pressure gauge, 6. starter solenoid (initial install), 7. ignition (what a bi*ch putting that & the bezel back in), 8. the external aftermarket clear plastic fuel filter's paper filter on the inside was floating around so , I replaced it (NO DIFFERENCE), 9. replaced the factory fuel filter (brass tube) that connects to the carburetor (was literally full of brown rusty metal particles)(NO DIFFERENCE), 10. carburetor (Guaranteed Carburetors)(NO DIFFERENCE), 11. finally heavy duty (racing) timing gears & chain (NO DIFFERENCE), 12. replaced gasket on LH valve cover that was not reusable after pulling cover off to check valves (Yesterday), & 13. replaced the dual vacuum lines from the dizzy to the carburetor (Yesterday)!!!!!! Yes, it is Top Dead Center & rotor button is pointing directly at the #1 plug wire. Tuesday, I pulled the LH valve cover & while a buddy would turn the ignition I checked the valves & all are in working order going up & down 1/4"-1/2"! I absolutely have NO IDEA what to do next & neither does any of the 5-6 guys that have been in & out throughout the debacle!!!! SOMEBODY PLEASE ASSIST ME WITH THIS MYSTERY!!!... To recap, after putting new distributor on it ran 65-75 mph but would sputter on initial acceleration, then began getting worse & finally would only turn over but will not crank/start/run & idle. I have replaced everything I know to that would have anything to do with starting & idling & it will turn over but will NOT run @ all (even with putting gas or Seafoam directly into carburetor)! Any assistance would be GREATLY appreciated before I go broke with nothing to show for it! Two of my friends will be here in about 2 hrs. to assist with anything that we can try!
 
Wow....:scratch:...It sounds like it runs when it wants to!

It should run even with the timing alittle off,but it sounds more like
a faulty wire short,or vapor lock in the fuel,maybe even a loose
harmonic ballance.
Got me stumped,Good luck!....:)

Maybe someone knows the symptoms.
 
CBaker,
Balancer is tight. I'm kinda' leaning towards wiring too. Waiting on a mechanic buddy to come over now to check. However, vapor lock? Could that be a problem based on my symptoms? I mean, even pouring gas or SeaFoam into carb doesn't change anything.
 

dustybumpers

don't play well w others
Long time since I fooled with points!

Sounds like the resistor wire is bad. Do you have voltage to the + side of the coil with the key turned on while cranking?
You can run a wire as a test from + battery to + coil. It should start.
You will have to unhook the wire to shut it off. Don't run the truck like this, it's only a test
 
Long time since I fooled with points!

Sounds like the resistor wire is bad. Do you have voltage to the + side of the coil with the key turned on while cranking?
You can run a wire as a test from + battery to + coil. It should start.
You will have to unhook the wire to shut it off. Don't run the truck like this, it's only a test

Good Idea,bypass all the other electrics to help narrow things down..smilieIagree

Also,check for bad ground connections on the body & chassy.Im not sure
if the solinoid needs to ground to fender.
Also,check for rats or mice,they like wire!...:)
 
IT RUNS! IT RUNS! IT RUNS! I wanted to update the thread since we last worked on the Bronco Friday and got it running! The new points were burnt! Now it is running but it seems to only be getting about 6 miles to the gallon and I have no idea why. When putting into drive it seems to shift into second gear within 3 or 4 seconds and I can't tell that it shifts into third at all. If this is the case, I assume that would definitely cause it to burn gas a lot faster. However, could it be anything else and how can I determine if it is shifting into third or not since I can't hear or feel it change while driving? Does the passing gear arm that feeds up to the throttle linkage from the transmission suppose to have a bolt that only holds it? Because when I bought the Bronco it was not connected and was laying on the back of the engine. Scrape marks on the driver's side of it appear to match perfectly where the hole for the spring goes but the end of the spring is not long enough to clip into the throttle hole and also hold the passing gear arm too. Therefore, I slid it on the pin at the top and then pressed the linkage arm that is closed on the end onto the pin to hold the passing gear arm. If this isn't the correct place and could be the reason for my issues (no, there is no gas leak anywhere)? Thanks to everyone for chiming in on this most stressful event! Regards, Dean
 

jebadiah04

Rooster Snorkler
849
27
glad to see you got her going. What transmission do you have in it?

sometimes trannies will shift odd and do generally funky stuff if they have a vacuum line thats not plugged in or had broken. Might check that. Next step would be to figure out if the kick down linkage is goobered up. Only 2 things that should affect shifting that a person can check without removing the trans i believe.
 

jebadiah04

Rooster Snorkler
849
27
if its a c-4 trans in it, there should be a vac line and also a little vacuum module thing that had a diaphragm in them that sometimes dies. its on the transmission itself and is changeable from the outside of the trans i believe
 

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