i got the recomender springs/ retainers/locks but do i need to change the valve seals ?

remember its on a ford new reman engine never started once..
so the stock seals are good

GT40 heads




Get your oil under control.
COMP Cams offers a complete line of valve seals, from the stock GM O-rings to the positive-stop Teflon® seals. These seals are a must to keep unwanted oil from entering the combustion chamber through the clearance in the valve guides. The O-ring seals use the standard retainer and oil splash shield. The umbrella seals are normally used when a larger-than-stock diameter spring is used. In the case of a double spring, the positive stop Teflon® seals are used. For triple-spring applications, use the smaller-diameter Viton® seals.

I always have, but I don't know if it's necessary.

It's not always done, but I would for that extra insurance... If the manufacturer recommends it, I would go ahead and replace the seals with the Teflon units...Even if your seals are brand new.

well they are only 25$ so an little extra insurance never is too much..


now that i have all this money into it i dont wanna go cheap

F 150Cobra said:

well they are only 25$ so an little extra insurance never is too much..


now that i have all this money into it i dont wanna go cheap

Click to expand...

Exactly, no need to be creating problems for yourself. There is nothing worse then a new motor gone bad, or so I could imagine

I would check to see if your heads will need machined for the teflon seals before you buy them,better to be safe then sorry.

I bought the whole Comp kit for my big block SS,which came with the teflon seals....well nowhere in the kit did it state that the base of each valve boss would need cut down for these new seals. After talking with the engine builder at my local speed shop,he informed me what had to be done....well that just got me to go with aluminum heads instead.

So do your research before spending the $$ on the teflon seals!!

You have to machine the top of the guide boss for the seals and I believe there is not enough room for the stock type seal when using dual springs, at least none of the motors I've built did.... Plus you have to machine the spring pocket for the inner spring, if you don't it will coil bind at full lift.

Hope this helps

ollldddd thread.. but thanks tough.. the machine shop already did it for me

engine is good as ready to go..

ohh i see who it is.. sup ??

hey i was wondering.. i have a C6 laying around when the gearbox lets go.. i will use it.. how do you like yours in your truck with the 302

still there and shifting like it did the day I built it. I wish I had a C4 4x4 tail shaft and adapter, can't find one and when I do they want an arm and a leg for it. The only thing that had a 4x4 c4 was a old bronco I think. Might be a c5 not sure but the shafts are the same... The C6 is a horse power hug big time where as the c4 eats very little and you can build them to take it...