Has anybody done a free spin hub conversion on a '95-'01 Explorer, after driving mine all day I think that's something I need to invest in...

Your '96 doesn't have those dreaded PVH hubs like Rangers of the same era did?

I don't believe that's even possible Eric. Doesn't that have an "Auto" setting on the 4WD?

Edit:

http://www.carpartswholesale.com/parts/ford/explorer/locking_hub.html

But- spindles and possibly rotors may need to be chaanged as well.

Ian, what are PVH hubs??

Ernie, yeah it says Control Trac on the back gate and yes, hi range is 4x4Auto... What's that mean???

1970Custom said:

Ian, what are PVH hubs??

Ernie, yeah it says Control Trac on the back gate and yes, hi range is 4x4Auto... What's that mean???

Click to expand...

It means stop thinking about fixing what ain't broke. I'm pretty sure the Control Trac doesn't even have hubs in the conventional sense, and it's not possible to convert. Cancel that- for enough $$$ you could add a flux capacitor, but it wouldn't be cost effective.

Okay okay, I'll go with a D44....

Is the Control Trac like the SuBee AWD???

1970Custom said:

Ian, what are PVH hubs??

Ernie, yeah it says Control Trac on the back gate and yes, hi range is 4x4Auto... What's that mean???

Click to expand...

4WD Auto selection means that the 4WD drivetrain is designed with the ability to slip to relieve drivetrain wrap up when using 4WD on dry pavement (one common solution is to have a clutch assembly in the transfercase).

If you switch your automatic hubs to manual hubs this would mean that if the hubs were unlocked and the system was shifted into 4WD then every thing in the drivetrain would be powered except the front wheels which would be discounected from the 4WD system, just like if you shifted a manual system into 4WD with the hubs unlocked.

PVH = "Pulse Vacuum Hubs" Just another name for automatic hubs that are vacuum controlled.
www.warn.com/corporate/press_hub_lock_technology.shtml

Also the 95-96 is different from the 97-01 explorer 4WD system. There is a CAD Center Axle Disconnect on the 95-96 front axle, the 97-01 do not use a CAD system, but use a "live axle system" instead. Here are some links with more info
www.explorer4x4.com/controltrac_mod.htm
www.explorer4x4.com/
www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88718

Now i believe there is a conversion kit for the older Explorers 90-94 and 97-00 Rangers.
therangerstation.com/forums/index.php
www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/
www.offroadrangers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24126&highlight=pvh+hub
www.offroadrangers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25467

Tellico 4Wd would know if there is a manual hub conversion for your explorer as they are the AVM hub distributor
www.tellico4x4.com/index.php/cPath/4282_4715_4944

polarbear said:

It means stop thinking about fixing what ain't broke. I'm pretty sure the Control Trac doesn't even have hubs in the conventional sense, and it's not possible to convert. Cancel that- for enough $$$ you could add a flux capacitor, but it wouldn't be cost effective.

Click to expand...

I belive Ernie is spot on with this, see my links in the post above.

john112deere said:

Your '96 doesn't have those dreaded PVH hubs like Rangers of the same era did?

Click to expand...

No the Exploders have a different system starting with the 95 MY. The Ranger didn't change until the 2001 MY IIRC.

Yeah, mine is the '96 model so that '97-'00 modification wouldn't work...

I was just thinking less stress on the drivetrain would equate to a better MPG overall... Oh well, I'll just do a few things to bump the MPG up (synthetic oil, shift kit, intake, exhaust)...

1970Custom said:

Yeah, mine is the '96 model so that '97-'00 modification wouldn't work...

I was just thinking less stress on the drivetrain would equate to a better MPG overall... Oh well, I'll just do a few things to bump the MPG up (synthetic oil, shift kit, intake, exhaust)...

Click to expand...

"'95-'96 (Switch says, 2WD, 4auto, 4 low

The system used in the early second generation Explorers was very similar to the later second gens. The '95 and '96 model years used the same transfer case as the '97-01 in conjunction with a Center-Axle Disconnect on the front axle. In 2wd mode, the transfer case is unlocked, and the CAD essentially breaks the passenger side axle shaft between the front differential and the passenger side halfshaft. That allows the front differential to stop turning, leaving the driver's side wheel to drive only the spider gears inside the diff. "
www.explorer4x4.com/controltrac_mod.htm

I don't see much drivetrain loss with this system over a manual system. You may want to weight the cost of your listed mods carefully, as i doubt changing those items will improve your MPG very much and the cost to do them will probably take many years and miles before you see a payback.

My main one will probably be lube swap, did it in the Toyota and noticed a gain of 20-30miles per tank... Shift kit is just because the 1-2 and 3-2 change is HUGE and figured it'd help with getting the low power number to the ground...

BTW, thanks for all the input... didn't realize the 4wd system on the newer rigs was so complex...

1970Custom said:

Yeah, mine is the '96 model so that '97-'00 modification wouldn't work...

I was just thinking less stress on the drivetrain would equate to a better MPG overall... Oh well, I'll just do a few things to bump the MPG up (synthetic oil, shift kit, intake, exhaust)...

Click to expand...

Not to sound like this, but it's a 4,000 lb brick powered by a 40 yr old engine design. Reliable? Yes. durable? Ditto. Gas mileage? Nope- ain't ever gonna happen.

As far as the other mods go- a '96 is a OBDII vehicle. Translated- one mod will probably create another issue, generating another mod... and so forth. It's never ending sometimes.

1. Ya don't switch to synthetic on an older rig unless you want to find more oil leaks than you ever dreamed possible (typical thing that happens). That, and knocking out years worth of crud and sending it through the lubrication system tends to do bad things to the way the oil moves through the motor.

2. DO NOT screw with the transmission on an older rig, other than a simple service. The parts have spent many miles getting to know each other, and are presumably getting along just fine. Ditto the drivelines, U-Joints, etc. Anything you do to change this can easily upset the long-term harmony and karma that's been going on.

3. Intake. See the OBDII comments. And for the love of pete, stay away from the K&N.

4. Exhaust. The one thing all young guys just can't resist messing with- even though it generally screws up low-end torque.

Give Ford a little credit- those trucks were built at the beginning of CAFE standards. Anything that legitimately gives it better fuel mileage was already on it.

1970Custom said:

...didn't realize the 4wd system on the newer rigs was so complex...

Click to expand...

You can thank all the Soccer Moms & people who engage 4WD in the dry grocery store parking lot, then complaining about drivetrain wrap up or getting stuck on a banna peel, for this overly complex failure prone 4WD system that is now all the rage with the yuppies.

Is there something I can do to solve the big gap on either side of 2nd??

As far as exhaling, I don't want loud just to help the truck breath...

polarbear said:

Not to sound like this, but it's a 4,000 lb brick powered by a 40 yr old engine design. Reliable? Yes. durable? Ditto. Gas mileage? Nope- ain't ever gonna happen.

As far as the other mods go- a '96 is a OBDII vehicle. Translated- one mod will probably create another issue, generating another mod... and so forth. It's never ending sometimes.

1. Ya don't switch to synthetic on an older rig unless you want to find more oil leaks than you ever dreamed possible (typical thing that happens). That, and knocking out years worth of crud and sending it through the lubrication system tends to do bad things to the way the oil moves through the motor.

2. DO NOT screw with the transmission on an older rig, other than a simple service. The parts have spent many miles getting to know each other, and are presumably getting along just fine. Ditto the drivelines, U-Joints, etc. Anything you do to change this can easily upset the long-term harmony and karma that's been going on.

3. Intake. See the OBDII comments. And for the love of pete, stay away from the K&N.

4. Exhaust. The one thing all young guys just can't resist messing with- even though it generally screws up low-end torque.

Give Ford a little credit- those trucks were built at the beginning of CAFE standards. Anything that legitimately gives it better fuel mileage was already on it.

Click to expand...

Holey Crap Ernie!! You are on a role tonight. That paragraph needs to be a sticky. What did you do find your beanie with the propeller on it tonight or something.

Some damn good info for "Captain Obvious"

blackhat620 said:

You can thank all the Soccer Moms & people who engage 4WD in the dry grocery store parking lot, then complaining about drivetrain wrap up or getting stuck on a banna peel, for this overly complex failure prone 4WD system that is now all the rage with the yuppies.

Click to expand...

I always atributed that to a 4WD system that was working propperly...

1970Custom said:

Is there something I can do to solve the big gap on either side of 2nd??

As far as exhaling, I don't want loud just to help the truck breath...

Click to expand...

Not really, transmission is what it is. Unless your muffler is plugged i doubt there is that much restriction in it that you can fix without some serious manifold and custom exhaust work. The money spent on this will be way more than the price of gasoline.

If you really need a more fuel efficient car, then you need to find a 2WD Toyota or other small compact car or motorcycle. 4WD SUV bricks are just not fuel efficient no matter what you do to them.

Do the math using your current mpg driving 1000 miles versus a 2 mpg gain and see just how little difference there is in the number of gallons of gasoline used. Getting a 2 mpg gain is going to take alot of work and money.

blackhat620 said:

Not really, transmission is what it is...

Click to expand...

Is the trans different between the '96 and the '00 because my mom's shifts WAY better and it's near 200k...