i have a 84 F-250 woth 2 fuel pumps in the tank with a carb on top. Can I pull the block off plate and run a manualy fuel pump instead of the eletric pumps in the tanks.I'm haveing sooooo many problems with the wiring. I'm wanting to put standard sending units in the tanks, leave the 6 port seletor on the frame and run the manual pump on the block let me know if it will work

Ya but you might need to replace the rod.
I would think you could just run one good pump like a Holley black top or red top.
What kind if wiring issue are you having i've had to rut the wiring on my trucks more then once so i've learned a thing or three

the wiring is jacked up when i get below half tank front or back it starts to chug unless i let out the gas. its like im running out of fuel but im not. the pumps are new and i cant find the 6 port seletor switch to replace the one i have now(i know where it is but i cant find it in a store). I'm seeing this design anit worth a shit cause of no parts so can i change it to something better. I was hoping to scrap the ele. pumps run regualer sending units and run a mechanical pump on the block but was the block designed to take on

They went to the electric pumps to solve the problem that you are having. The mechanical pump will make things a whole lot worse unless you leave the electric pumps also.
I would try changing the size of the orifice to a larger size in your hot gas bypass system. I do not remember the color codes and part numbers of the three orifice sizes right now but I could bring them up on the reader tomorrow. What color do you have now?

I would not think that your selector valve is the problem. Once it runs to the selection of a tank it will stay on that tank and also line up the fuel gauge to that tank. The return and supply lines should go right through the valve with no restriction. You have to keep the 6 port selector valve to be able to keep the hot gas bypass system and your fuel gauge working.

where can i find the orfice is it the T where my return line starts. i need the three pin plug for the rear tank cause im not getting a reading of the fuel level. Can any body get me a wiring design and the sizes for me. Its just hard cause i have never had my butt kicked around like this truck has

I think you just replace the whole "T".

The hot fuel system provides for some of the fuel in the supply line to be returned to the fuel tank and thus keeping it cooler and reducing the chance of vapor lock.

The FORD microfiche says:
Name: Valve ASSY. (Fuel Vapor Separator & Fuel Shutoff).

E0TZ9N176-B .090 Used as a field fix for units experiencing hot fuel problems.
E3TZ9N176-A Red Dot .060 For Fuel Starvation or Power Loss.
E3TZ9N176-B Blue Dot .040 For Fuel Starvation or Power Loss.

Here is a wiring diagram I made for this system.
http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/gallery/data/542/medium/1983_Fuel_El_C_T.JPG

If you can not read the diagram email me your email address at the address below and I will email it to you.
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i replaced the t up by the mainafold next to the dis. i just have to find out which one i put in. this has been an on going problem and if i dont fix it i hate to say it but i will set the truck on fire in my driveway which the wife will be happy

i just checked it has the red dot