My MIL's exploder needs rear brakes and possible new rotors.....we're going to order from Rockauto, pretty darn cheap for the entire kit for the rear at $89+shipping.

Is this something easy enough even for me to do with minimal tools and a floor jack?

Yup. You can do it!!! Pull off the wheel, unbolt the brake caliper, remove the pads from the caliper and replace with the new pads. The rotor will slide off. If it doesn't slide off, beat it with a hammer to break the rust loose and then it'll slide off.

The only trick might be using a quick-grip tool to compress the pistons on the caliper to widen the pads enough to clear the fresh thicker pads and rotors.

Ryan

O'Rattlecan said:

Yup. You can do it!!! Pull off the wheel, unbolt the brake caliper, remove the pads from the caliper and replace with the new pads. The rotor will slide off. If it doesn't slide off, beat it with a hammer to break the rust loose and then it'll slide off.

The only trick might be using a quick-grip tool to compress the pistons on the caliper to widen the pads enough to clear the fresh thicker pads and rotors.

Ryan

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Awesome Ryan, thanks....I wonder if that's a tool I can grab at a local parts store if I need it.

Ken, you can also use a large C clamp with a piece of wood against the piston to compress. You might also want to remove some brake fluid from the reservoir in the engine bay. Compressing the piston on the caliper will push the brake fluid back into the reservoir, causing an overflow if there is not adequate room to accept the "extra" fluid.

Also, don't let the calipers hang by the brake hose when you remove them. Use a piece of wire to support the calipers and still keep them out of the way.

It's just a job of keeping track of the location of things and putting them back in the reverse order.

Rear brakes can be a bit dicier, if they are adjusted up all the way. Removing the drums can be tough because of rust, ridges on the drum, etc. To loosen up the drums on the shoes, you will want to remove the small rubber insert at the bottom on the backside of the wheel, push a screwdriver into the hole to release the locking mechanism, then use another screwdriver to turn the starwheel, which will release the tension of the shoes on the drum. If the brakes are adjusted up all the way, it will take a LOT of turns to get the shoes away from the drum. I don't remember which direction you have to turn the starwheel to loosen.(I have to look it up every time.) In this case, youtube is your friend. There are lots of videos on items like replacing brakes- some good, some bad.

A "C" clamp works really well for compressing the piston back, that's what I use. Use the old brake pad as a "backer plate" so the pressure is even on the piston and you won't possibly damage the rubber seal. Also compress slowly and take the master cylinder cover off, you are forcing brake fluid back into the reservoir.

OMG! Doug and I posted at the same time, lol!

Like minds think alike, at the same time.

fatherdoug said:

Like minds think alike, at the same time.

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You guys are awesome....I'll keep you posted on my mechanical prowess!

Doug and Roy are right but if you have an ABS system it can be best not to force the fluid back through the ABS unit - found out the hard way a few years ago while doing a brake job on a Mercedes which required a trip to the dealer to have the abs computer reset.
What i would do is the same as Doug and Roy but with the different step of using a line clamp to lock the rubber brake hose off (wrap a rag around the hose and use vice grips if you can't find the clamping tool at your local auto parts supply) and crack the bleed nipple on the caliper open before you force the piston back into it's housing - then reassemble with the new parts and release the clamp ....... ask the missus to help bleed any air out of the caliper and you're good to go.

If you've never bled brakes before here's a quick run down on the way i do it.
Make sure that all brake line connections are tightened and that all line lockers are removed form hoses also check that the brake fluid reservoir is full and keep checking during the process - you do NOT want to run out of fluid as you will then have to bleed the entire system (don't ask me how i know this ) .

Have someone pump the brakes until they are firm then get them to push hard down on the brake pedal.

Gently crack open the bleed nipple and as soon as fluid stops spurting out tighten up the nipple again.

You'll probably notice a stream of air bubbles in the fluid as you do this Ken so just repeat the process until the fluid comes out cleanly with no air bubbles - i like to have at least two "bleed outs" without any air before i'll call it job done.

Good advice, Mark. I was not aware of that.

Wonder if that is a Mercedes thing, never had an issue typically, but I don't touch Mercedes much these days..