In this thread...with a little bit of.....



and some



In my Garage



preperation is key...tarps and lots of cardboard to respect the Landlords property.... access planks fender covers. the truck cover will hide parts in the bed that are removed from the vehicle keeping eye sores at a minimum along with saftey



Teardown of the grille radiator support is eccential to gain easy access to the engine on a lfted vehicle for the heads will be pulled first..I already know the bottom end of the motor has no issues....we will concentrate on headwork along with cam and lifters......Lights Out!!



the goal here is to spend as little as possible,but gain some low to mid range torque/Hp along with just maybe a few mpgs as well....stay tuned!

Glad to see the truck is still in your driveway. Keep us posted!

fatherdoug said:

Glad to see the truck is still in your driveway. Keep us posted!

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Thanks Doug...will do!!

Fantastic come back ! From almost selling it to a 460 upgrade. Glad to here and hope it all goes well.

I'm also impressed with the care your showing for the property. Most renters just don't give a shit or don't know better.

Right on Bob!

m78 said:

Fantastic come back ! From almost selling it to a 460 upgrade. Glad to here and hope it all goes well.

I'm also impressed with the care your showing for the property. Most renters just don't give a FTF or don't know better.

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Thanks Mark...Refuse to loose man....I believe in treating the property as if it was ours....actually it is why we rent...Our Landlord and us have a mutual understanding,they are some pretty cool folks,more like friends..and we keep it that way by mutual respect and paying on time or before due dates along with proper property management.

DNFXDLI said:

Right on Bob!

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Thanks Duncan!!

Ok Next...Engine Teardown the pics will speak for them self....



remove valve cover bolts/pull covers



remove alternator / assembly...vwiiiiiiit vwiiiiit



remove P/S assembly.....vwiiiiit vwiiiit



remove Intake.....vwiiiit vwiiiit x # of bolts Gently pry up to loosen once bolts are removed...with a prybar.



once the intake is removed...keep the valley covered to keep out debris...



loosen & remove all rocker arms/pushrods....Keep them in order in their relation to one another along with each cylinder location..you do not want to mix them when reusing.



Layout of rockers and pushrodsin according to relation..top row passenger side..from left to right...front of the engine to the rear...same with bottom row driver side..ect ect



Although these will be washed and cleaned in solvent...ALWAYS check the oil passages for restrictions....



same with the pushrods...once cleared of oil you should be able to see through them..a light at one end is a good aid...



Again set out of the way and cover them up..keep in mind im doing this work in an out door atmosphere...



Trucks with headers...removal of engine mt nuts are eccential..



remove the header bolts / both sides



raising of the engine is required to remove headers from the vehicle..they remove from the bottom side...these will also be addressed while apart...



Cant get the "Buzzgun" in those tight area's..do what i do..Cheat...A long piece of pipe or in my case the jack handle makes an excellant leverage bar to break loose those head bolts...One hand on the ratchet head...while pulling the bar with the other,will keep the ratchet from slipping...



head removed...cleanup any Antifreeze that may have gotten in the cylinders ASAP Do not let it sit in there....once heads are removed cover the block when not being worked on...



Right bank shows consistancy..a bit more carbon than i would like to see othewise not to bad...carb leaning should clear the carbon issue..



Left Bank...Houston...we have a prolblem.....I see oil in the two center cylinders...O S&*# gonna have to go deeper.......

A little greasy..but no cuts or busted knuckels here....Gloves you say?...Real Mechanics need no gloves! hehe so far 12 hrs in the project...

Ok Time for a quick review...having had this motor apart once recieved one might ask...you didnt notice this on the initial teardown?

Yes i did...but not knowing the engine along with other Higher priorities situations that got in the road of this build at the time made me close it up prematurly to get it in the vehicle to consolidate parts for moving to a new location...Now having run the engine for a season, i have a better understanding of what it needs along with what i want out of it..The engine did perform and run well as it was...But the downside it consumed a good deal of oil along with blowing oil out the exhaust at times.a sign of Ring issues..not compression Rings...but oil control rings...the engine showed no signs of blowby in the pcv system....once "I" Get the the heads cleaned,seats ground /ported for my eyes only guys (sorry)... we will go into the deep and correct those ring issues!! Stay Tuned!!

Rock out with your out Buzz! This section has been a little to quiet. I feel ya on the planks and pulling the core support. And mine isn`t near as tall as yours.

primetime said:

Rock out with your out Buzz! This section has been a little to quiet. I feel ya on the planks and pulling the core support. And mine isn`t near as tall as yours.

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Thank you Justin....makes my life alot easier to work on this beast...hehe

Ok Next up Cleaning and disassembly of heads some of the things you will need are......



Saftey glasses,scrapers,wire brushes,ect ect..



a Bench grinder with a wire Brush can be your best friend..this one will see a good deal of use in the coming days.....



no Bench grinder...well use your drill mounted in a vise works just as good...saftey glasses on please....



A simple drip pan to cleanup parts works just as good as those parts cleaners in the shop.....



I use Kerosene as a cleaning agent....higher flash point than gasolene makes it pretty safe to use for the home mechanic,It also is a excellant cleaning agent....please use it in a safe manor away from open flames or sources of heat....



Ok Now that weve identified what we have here...let the cleaning begin...



Tip #1 Before disassembly if you wish to check for seat leakage at home,here is what you can do...Place the head on a cookie sheet with the combustion side up..then fill the chamber with some kerosene,let it sit..if the kerosene leaks through..the valves are not totally sealing the chamber...valve/seat grinding is eccential to correct the situation...



Using my valve spring compressor tool,ive compressed the spring sometimes you may have to rap on the top of the tool to break it loose from the keepers,sludge and gunk can make them stick pretty good at times...using a pocket screw driver with a magnet is best to remove the keepers..use care and do not loose them..place them all in a sealable plastic bag you will need these later for reinstallation..do this for each valve..Remember keep the valves in order in relation to their locations..I cannot stress this enough!!



tip of the screwdriver shows the location of the valve seal,im going to go over some pointers of the seals.....



Pic shows how the seal is pliable and soft..these were installed about 2k ago they should be still soft...most cases they will be hard and brittle or completely missing.Through my yrs of experience these 50 cent seals can reak alot of havoc on an engine for when they break they have nowhere to go but in the oil pan,Ive experienced cases where the oil pickup will pick up a piece and lock up the oil pump along with sheering off the distributor gear..these seals can be replaced WITHOUT tearing the engine down by shooting compressed air through a fitting screwed in the spark plug hole.Another tip I always use these type of seals in a non Ford engine as well where applicable..if they will clear the valve spring these seals give the best valve stem/guide seal out of all of them imo...



layout of valves in order of relation..again top row Passenger side of engine,from left to right...front of the motor to the rear!! Bottom row Drivers side ect ect...along with my baggie of keepers and the valve springs in order and related to its valve....pic is for a reference i will be upgrading the valve springs in my build we will get to this a bit later on.....



Again cover your parts!! it keeps out debri along with moisture



Now that we have our heads apart..take your gasket scraper remove all excess gasket material of ALL CONTACT SURFACES...Meaning combustion side,intake ports,exhaust ports,valve cover locations



stick the head in your drip pan of kerosene begin scrubbing the entire head removing all sludge tarnish ect ect use your brush and scrapers...remove ALL the gunk...in some cases you may have let the head soak or repeat as needed...dont forget the ports....



cleaning exhaust ports....



cleaning intake ports...dont forget the topside..(not shown)



once cleaning is accomplished flood rinse with water using a hose or power washer if you have one.....



use compressed air to dry the standing water...use the air to Remove ALL the water..blow through the ports,water jackets,bolt holes completely leaving no stones unturned...



Next begin cleaning ALL Gasket surfaces,valve chambers ect with the drill brush...the surfaces will get to a shiny smooth silver color after all material residue is removed
two hands on the drill please at all times!!!



wire brushing the valve chambers



the intake/exhaust ports..clean,clean, clean...I want to be able to eat my lunch off these babies!!!!



This illistration is for those of you who have overheated your engine at some point...you will need to check for warpage of the cylinder deck..taking a straight edge and feeler guage measure the gaps between the bar and the contact surface between the cylinders..compare your readings to specs..if your under specs the heads cylinder contact surface will need to be milled by a machine shop..you will also want to check for cracks in the combustion chambers,or in between cylinders is most common area's and usually can be visible with a magnifying glass along with a coat of kerosene laid on the surface will highlite cracks for the home DIY...These heads are now ready for seat grinding/ porting....To be Continued......

Bob, this thread is awesome! Man.....love it. Glad to see you working on the rig....looks like some pretty professional mechanics going on here....AWESOME!!!

Oh and kudos on the property....as a landlord myself, you can't pay for tenants like yourself!

taxreliever said:

Bob, this thread is awesome! Man.....love it. Glad to see you working on the rig....looks like some pretty professional mechanics going on here....AWESOME!!!

Oh and kudos on the property....as a landlord myself, you can't pay for tenants like yourself!

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Thank You Ken !!! Hopefully this thread will help out those who wish to undertake such a project at home and save on costs......It can be done affordably! Ken you have my upmost respect as a Landlord...I to have seen what tenants can do to a property....thank you!

taxreliever said:

Bob, this thread is awesome! Man.....love it. Glad to see you working on the rig....looks like some pretty professional mechanics going on here....AWESOME!!!

Oh and kudos on the property....as a landlord myself, you can't pay for tenants like yourself!

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great thread Bob, complete with great detailed pictures

amkatt1 said:

great thread Bob, complete with great detailed pictures

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Thank You Roy!!

Next we cleaned all related valve train components...rocker arms,push rods,valves,head bolts...using the bench grinders wire brush....









We also cleaned preped the intake a light coat of paint was applied...With the 750 cfm Holley dual feed i must admit im quite pleased with this setup..throttle response has been quick on low end,very responsive through mid range to higher rpms on the engine in the condition as it was...Might i add 12 mpg's driving conservatively....yes 12!! pretty decent for a lifted rolling brick on wheels....



Now we are ready to grind the seats along with some minor porting...for this application a cleanup of the castings in the chambers along with removing sharp edges in the ports will be all that is eccential for this build im not looking for upper end rpm....these heads although somewhat restrictive on the exhaust ports, are adequate enough for this build..intake ports flow like Niagra Falls....Here is a link on porting the D3VE-A2A Heads...It covers the technique pretty well pending on your application

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/D3_specific_porting_guide_page1.html

Stay tuned....Parts selections coming up!!

Next we cleaned up valve train components using the bench grinder brush ...








along with the intake....this setup will remain...Im quite pleased with its capabilities...

What is that manifold/carburetor combination?

awesome job mate, good to see ya keeping it and getting into it!!!!