Alright ladies and gents...brought the 98 sploder w/302 in for inspection. It failed the inspection, no CEL and 'bad catalytic converter'. With no CEL, they weren't willing to go any further...fix that this weekend, and was able to pull a diagnostic from the inspector...the first code was for the cross over pipe. I've known this is an issue since we've had it, but this is the first time it's caused a failed inspection. Anywho..the crossover tube is on order ($100 part...ouch). My question is, I tried fixing this last year, got the engine hot, sprayed it down penetrating oil, etc etc...even got a 4-5ft cheater bar on the nut, and could not break it loose. So this year it has to come off, but I'm pretty concerned breaking it loose is gonna bust up the passenger side exhaust manifold...which is a $160 piece, and not enough move around space for me to want to mess with it.

So does anyone have any suggestions on how to pull this cross over pipe off???


As I said, they're also saying the next code that popped was for the front cat on the driver's side. However, I've been doing some reading that it could be a false reading and actually be the O2 sensors...true or false???

But before I get to0 wild with the cat and O2's, I figure I'll fixe the upstream item in the cross over...and maybe that will normalize some of the downstream issues????


Thoughts, opinions, suggestions???

Heat just the nut, and start bringing it down. When it stops, put some more heat on it, and start over. There will probably be no threads ledt when you are done, so do the same with a torch on the stud, with a stud extractor.

Probably the cat in question is melted instde, so the 02 sensor is reflecting that.

The aftermarket cat kit is around $300, comes with the crossover pipe, cat, and a hose to hook up the air tube.

O2's can throw false readings too. Need to have a scanner hooked to it to see how the reading goes. You would notice in performance if the cat was truly melted..

what code did it throw ?

Don't remember the exact code numbers off the top of my head Dennis, but they were the codes for the cross over and the drivers side primary cat.

I'm a believer in putting a lot of heat into a nut if it's "rust welded" into place. I have used a propane torch for medium duty jobs. On the big nasty rust welds, I've even used a MAP gas torch. Ever since Brad taught me the super heat trick, I haven't had a bolt defeat me. Heat that baby up till it's glowing cherry red and give it a try.

Ryan

You do have to be somewhat careful with the heating though. If you get the bolt that it is attached to hot as well, it twists off much easier... MAP gas is pretty handy for that, as it doesn't get it too hot like an acetylene or cutting torch would, but gets it hot enough to glow, which is key.

A decent induction heater works well too.

Getting it hot and smacking it will also work on occasion.

I find a bit of heat with an im pact tends to work well... The vibration shakes it loose. Many times the steady pull of a breaker bar or ratchet will twist the stud off, while the impact shakes it loose.

When did you get said Explorer? I must have missed that...

Thanks for the input guys...been applying PB, Kroil and acetone/type F all through the week...probably tackle it this coming weekend.

Matty Bear...said sploder was my moms...when I gave her the Taurus Wagon the little bro inherited her sploder.

Finally got around to this...after liberal bathing of a 50/50 mix of acetone and type F for a few weeks, she came loose. She didn't want to come willingly though...ended up using a 6' pc of square tube as a cheater. When she did break loose, it was sloooooooow, I thought I twisted it right off. Luckily I didn't...now the CEL is out and the loud clicking is gone...yay.

****, i think itd be eaiser to move to somewhere where emissions arnt an issue