My V10 is running bad! It is sputtering and surging. There is no code showing up. I changed plugs and coils...no help. Changed fuel filter, battery is new and strong, vac hoses good. Any thoughts?

You changed all of the coils on each plug?

What are the chances you got a bad tank of gas?

Ryan

V-10 Triton running poorly

This has been ongoing for a while. I thought at first a bad tank, but have since ruled that out. Changed out the MAF Sensor today on the advice of the parts guy. No change. Down another $100 bill. Talked to a Ford mechanic and was convinced this was a bad Idle Air Control.....down another $60, still no change. I don't even want to drive this thing. I've just about had it!

Chart 1
Starting Concerns: Stalls After Start
Stalls/Quits
Runs Rough
Misses
Buck/Jerk
Hesitation/Stumble
Surge
Unique Idle concerns: Rolling Idle
Note: For stalls on the following applications: Escort/Tracer (for 4V - late year production), Contour/Mystique/Cougar (w/ returnless fuel system), 3.0L Taurus/Sable, Mustang, Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis,Town Car and LS6/LS8; engine may stall if left running while refueling. Advise customer to turn engine off while refueling to avoid contamination or damage to the EVAP system.



SYSTEM/COMPONENT REFERENCE (Section 5 Pinpoint Test unless noted)
Check The Following PIDs:
DPFEGR (if equipped) (hot idle value within 0.15V of KOEO value)
LONGFT1 / LONGFT2 (value between -20 and +20)
VPWR (value between 10.5 and 17.0 volts, and within 0.5 volts of battery voltage)
DPFEGR PID value not within 0.15V of KOEO value:
HE100
LONGFT1 / LONGFT2 value low (-):
Continue diagnosis.
Concentrate checks in areas that would cause the engine to run rich.
LONGFT1 / LONGFT2 value high (+):
Continue diagnosis.
Concentrate checks in areas that would cause the engine to run lean.
VPWR not between 10.5 and 17.0 volts:
Go to the Charging System - General Information Section 414-00 of the Workshop Manual.
VPWR between 10.5 and 17.0 volts, but not within 0.5 of battery voltage:
CHECK B(+) supply to power relay (or CCRM). CHECK VPWR circuit between PCM and power relay or CCRM. CHECK PWR GND circuits.

For vehicles that run rough at idle:
With the key on, engine off, check the INJxF PIDs (the "x" indicates the injector number, there will be one INJxF PID for each engine cylinder). All INJxF PIDs must indicate "NO"?
INJxF PID(s) indicate "yes" (an injector circuit fault is indicated):
Natural Gas applications:
HA60
All others:
H56

For engine now starts but stalls in PARK or NEUTRAL:
If engine will start and run normally at part throttle, check Idle Air Control (IAC) System.
Engine will start and run normally, instead of stalling, at part throttle:
KE2

Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
DC25

Secondary Ignition System
JB1

Fuel Delivery System
For Natural Gas Applications:
HB1
All Others:
HC1

Exhaust System
HF1

PCV System
HG1



Automatic Transmission
Automatic Transaxle/Transmission - Section 307-01 of the Workshop Manual

Base Engine
Engine System - General Information, Section 303-00 of the Workshop Manual

Intake Air System
HU1


Additional Testing
Z1

Additional Checks:
Drivelines
Manual transmission/clutch
Charging System

A/C system (for surge with A/C on)
Speed control system (for surge with speed control on)
A/C compressor diode, if equipped (for rolling idle)
Applicable section in Workshop Manual.

These are known for the EGR to get stuck open. Maybe bad injector, gotta unplug 1 at a time to see what one doesnt effect the engine, then you will know the prob.

Thanks. Even though I had changed out the EGR prior, I checked it and found it to be stuck open! Replaced it again and truck is now driveable at least. It's still missing and sputtering a little. I'll check vacuum and then start hitting injectors one at a time.

Thanks again!