Well I was getting ready to leave for lunch today and as I got into the pickup to leave one of the other guys decided to back up and stop just in front of my truck. As it was he had left enough room for me to squeeze out, so I thought.

Where I park is next to a 25ft section of 56" 1/2" wall pipe that is cement lined and coated 1/2" inside 3/4" outside. needless to say this stuff when at its full 56ft length will stall our 10 ton shop crane, back on track now, the reason i park next to the end is so I have easy access to leave for class and such along with it being winter I'm in direct sun from about 9:00 on.

well I forgot just how close I parked today and as I cranked the wheel and let out the clutch I heard a SCRAAAPE, and at first didn't realize what I had done till I looked in the mirror and thought about it.

Not as bad as it might look,

Thats bad enough. Will insurance cover it or it is one of those live and learn things?

Live and learn, I was planning to paint it once spring rolls around (so I'll have the bike and down time for the truck) just didn't plan on a lot of body work.

Oh....well...most of it will push out from the backside. You have access to a porta-power? That would be the easiest. Otherwise a bottle jack would work too. Just harder to operate and hold in place with one person.



I am looking forward to spring and dreading it at the same time. I know I will need tons of metalshaping and lots of blocking.

Looks like you and Ryan will be joining me too.

I tried the plunger when I got home but the upper part of the dent is right at a strong point in the body.

I've got body hammers and access to a spot welder for body work, just need to pull the bed and pull the fender liners.

I would not try the hammers and dollies until the majority of it is back in shape. if you don't have a porta power, use pry bars, a bottle jack, whatever you can get in behind there and slowly push it out. Use blocks of wood for padding, so you don't create more damage.

Removing a dent is finding the stresses and releasing them. You are basically trying to reverse the force that made the dent in the first place.

It looks like some deep gouges though. Not a lot you can do with those and the body lines where it crosses will not come back perfect. Filler is about all you can do there.


The biggest majority of that will "pop" out if you can find the pressure point. The scrapes might just be in the paint too. Lets hope.

Damn Eric that sucks... But ehh... Cmon man, how could you be so dense?!

sucks, dude. Dad did that to one of our vans and the thing wouldn't pop back out. I hope yours can be fixed for the most part, at least.

Good luck.

Ryan

Maybe you can put detective rattlecan on the case. he seems to have solved his lickity split.

O wait, you know who the culprit is...

CaFordDude said:

Maybe you can put detective rattlecan on the case.

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.......but, if campus security doesn't bring him some justice, he's talk'n like he might morf into Jack Bauer...

Oh man that sucks............I hate it when I do things like that

Gunner

Brian, I'll be pulling the bed anyway when it comes time straighten it all out (so I can paint the back of the cab). If you look just behind the big dent you'll see two others where I had a strap over the bed when I was pressed for time to get my F-150/flatbed trailer out to my grandma's (threw the Yota on the trailer so I could leave the other half).

The scrapes are to the metal, bad part is they went through the graphics too (not that it matters after its painted.) If I can't get it out I'll just hit it with a quick couple coats of rust prohibiting primer.


gouges wouldn't have been there had the end of the pipe been cleaned, the plasma slag did most of the damage.

My sister did that in my mothers car last summer. Unfortunately, she damaged the back door as well as the fender, so it was more expensive to repair.

I did something similar to the front fender of my truck once, but not so bad- I never fixed it and if you don't look for it you really can't see it.

1970Custom said:

Brian, I'll be pulling the bed anyway when it comes time straighten it all out (so I can paint the back of the cab). If you look just behind the big dent you'll see two others where I had a strap over the bed when I was pressed for time to get my F-150/flatbed trailer out to my grandma's (threw the Yota on the trailer so I could leave the other half).

The scrapes are to the metal, bad part is they went through the graphics too (not that it matters after its painted.) If I can't get it out I'll just hit it with a quick couple coats of rust prohibiting primer.


gouges wouldn't have been there had the end of the pipe been cleaned, the plasma slag did most of the damage.

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Ahh ok. I don't like pulling the beds unless I have to. When changing paint colors...not much choice.

Even if you can pull it, you need to put something (besides just primer) on the deeper scratches for now. Primer draws moisture and will rust too. Don't want to get the rust started.

I have to take my truck completely apart to change everything. That is good and bad. The PO took it all apart and put new bolts in, so it won't be as bad as it sounds. Strip each panel, metalshaping, epoxy primer, filler, 2K (primer), months of blocking, base, clear. All SPI paint products.

My Toyota will be a cheap-o paint, but it'll be done right.

I'm not changing the colors too much either a deeper blue or a charcoal.

On my other project (the '70) I'll be going with HOK, Hot Hues, or something of that nature.


I'll make sure to post up some pics of the Yota during and after, as well as some before, my painting and body work.

HOK hot hues is good paint. Its a bit expensive for just a daily driver though (IMHO).

I was thinking about HOK cinnamon pearl for the truck, but buying it by the quart adds up fast!!!

PPG has several lines and the lower cost ones are not bad.

I have used Dupont's cheaper line in the past. I was just using SS back then though.

Mine will be all SPI (unless something drastic happens). I have the epoxy primer to get started now, but the weather got cold before I could. I do not have a place inside to work.

I am leaning toward viper blue/white. Modern colors and mimic the factory two tone paints jobs they did back then.


HOK Cinnamon pearl:

The blue I'm thinking of is the one Subaru uses on the WRC cars

That is a cool blue. There are quite a few blues listed on this page of pics(paint codes too) :

http://www.fastlanemotorsports.us/UProjStepDetail.asp?projectstepid=14

Here is a factory 2 tone on an F-250. Body color, white top, and I will add white wheels and white pin stripes:




Then the viper blue I want to use (also the same 2 tone):




Now...If I just knew somone who was decent at photoshop...I could get it pre-painted.

I'll take the Viper thank you....

1970Custom said:

I'll take the Viper thank you....

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Yeah...we could buy a whole fleet of our trucks for what that costs.


Will this be close enough? Tony build it.





Viper V 12, 6 speed transmission, AC, Cruise, tilt, etc.