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high idle

Beach66Bum

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I have a 1983 F250 (manual transmission) with a 351 windsor and 2 barrel carb. The truck has been COMPLETELY tuned up. Brand New carb, wires, plugs, rotor/ rotor cap, etc. Carb has been adjusted along with the timing, idle mixture, choke, etc. The curb idle is at 1000 rpm's. Can't get it lower. I have NO vacuum leaks, believe me I checked. The throttle cable is working fine, no binding and I put a extra spring return on. Thoughts ?? :)
 

primetime

sawmill slave
I had one that that wouldn`t idle either. ended up being the throttle cable bracket not allowing the carb to close all the way. Only found it because for some reason I unhooked the cable from the carb. Are the throttle plates tight to the shaft? Other than that, IDK. I`m batlling the same problem on an Edelbrock. Most of the time it idles at 1500. sometimes it idles like it`s supposed to. Depends on it`s mood.
 

Beach66Bum

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Thanks for the reply. Just seems not able to get it to drop that 200 rpm's lower. Everything is great on the truck other than that. I guess 1000 rpm's isn't to bad for idle. I have the same thing too. Sometimes it does idle down to 800 rpm's. I did check the cable and it's fine.
 

Beach66Bum

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Never did say that the problem of the idle got fixed. It was the POS re manufactured carb I had bought :headbang: What a waste of money, and I had to give my carb as a core. But...not to long after I was able to get an unmolested, complete 2150 2V carb from the wreckers :) Idle is right at spec's 800 rpm's.
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
Thanks for the update. That's good to know! I'm starting to see some leakage out the side of the throttle plate shaft. Migh be time time for a new, rebuilt 2150 also. :headbang:
 

Beach66Bum

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Thanks for the update. That's good to know! I'm starting to see some leakage out the side of the throttle plate shaft. Migh be time time for a new, rebuilt 2150 also. :headbang:

Do the re build yourself Doug, it's a hit or miss with the re manufactured ones, and I got a big time miss. It wasn't even put together with the right screws and such. I was desperate back then....:suspicious:
actually I was lazy, :headbang:
 

5.0Flareside

GingaNinja
14,463
384
La Vergne, TN
1k rpm will eat up a stock torque converter if left too long.. But yours is a Manual so no issue there.. Mines sitting around 900 rpms till I get MAF swap done. Then it'll sit around 700-750 rpms..


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
Do the re build yourself Doug, it's a hit or miss with the re manufactured ones, and I got a big time miss. It wasn't even put together with the right screws and such. I was desperate back then....:suspicious:
actually I was lazy, :headbang:

I hear ya, Roy! I was told a throttle plate shaft issue is not repairable?
 

Beach66Bum

Moderator
Top Poster Of Month
1k rpm will eat up a stock torque converter if left too long.. But yours is a Manual so no issue there.. Mines sitting around 900 rpms till I get MAF swap done. Then it'll sit around 700-750 rpms..


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

The idle got fixed when I got rid of the poorly done re manufactured carb and put the "new" 2150 from the wreckers on. I guess you put it in neutral at the long lights?
 

Beach66Bum

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I hear ya, Roy! I was told a throttle plate shaft issue is not repairable?


Hi Doug, yes, that's true for the home re build kits you buy. If there is "play" and you see fuel leaking, check with a can of carb cleaner and spray around the throttle plate shaft, there should be no change in idle. This is a great way to tell if the brass bushings are worn and sucking in air (one cause of faster idle) If it does change the idle, then time for a new carb.
 

fatherdoug

Tonto Papadapolous
Hi Doug, yes, that's true for the home re build kits you buy. If there is "play" and you see fuel leaking, check with a can of carb cleaner and spray around the throttle plate shaft, there should be no change in idle. This is a great way to tell if the brass bushings are worn and sucking in air (one cause of faster idle) If it does change the idle, then time for a new carb.

Thank You, Roy. Looks like I need a new carburetor. The idle does seem to increase on a cold morning after the choke has released(850 rpm vs 650 rpm), but after things warm up and expand the idle drops back to 650.

This is the original carburetor.(still has the tag on it).
 

Beach66Bum

Moderator
Top Poster Of Month
Thank You, Roy. Looks like I need a new carburetor. The idle does seem to increase on a cold morning after the choke has released(850 rpm vs 650 rpm), but after things warm up and expand the idle drops back to 650.

This is the original carburetor.(still has the tag on it).

Save your original carb Doug! and get a new one. Wish I had not done the core exchange with mine :( the saving grace was that I got one from a truck that had just come in and it was the original with the tags still on (see my gallery) so I was happy again :)

IMG_2036.JPG
 
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