Well a while ago for some odd reason my E-Brake went loose. Just loose enough so it hangs down and shows that the "E-brake" light on your dash. So I drove with it for about a week or two and today I got an idea. [Also, my E-Brake wasn't loose enough so that I was getting horrible gas mileage]

So here are a few photos of what I did to fix it





Before



After

I've been using a similar approach on a lawn tractor throttle for several years now...

Don't expect the rubber band to last too long; other than that it's a good fix.

Does Snap-On make that e-brake tool?

yeah I was wondering about how long it would last, but... if it breaks i'll just throw some more on there.

and Snap-On?

I saw it in the snap on catalogue.

Ryan

What exactly is the rubber band holding?

There is an adjustment (on the cable) under the vehicles if there is just a little bit too much slack in the cables. Tighten the adjustment a few rounds, cable tightens up slightly, and the light goes off.

Maybe there is something I am not understanding.

Brian_B said:

What exactly is the rubber band holding?

There is an adjustment (on the cable) under the vehicles if there is just a little bit too much slack in the cables. Tighten the adjustment a few rounds, cable tightens up slightly, and the light goes off.

Maybe there is something I am not understanding.

Click to expand...

Not always there isn't. My '97 Ranger's e-brake pedal goes clear to the floor because the cable's stretched a little (the rear brakes are good, and adjusted right), and they give me a hard time every year for my safety sticker, even though it does grab tight enough to stall out the truck.

Looks to me like his is holding the pedal up, though. I've seen a number of vehicles that had pedals that got sloppy and even fully released the pedal sat just barely far enough down to trip the switch for the light. You can lift it with your foot and shut the light out, but the spring that is supposed to hold it there breaks or wears out and doesn't hold it anymore.

alex, I didn't realize there was a spring that was supposed to retain the pedal position. Westlake has a huge selection of springs you can purchase that might do the same thing in a way that will last lots longer than a rubber band. Good temporary fix, but next time you're in Lee's Summit, swing by Westlake and get yourself spring.

Ryan

I have yet to see any vehicle that does not have an adjustment. My 56 has one, my 89 ranger had one, my 01 explorer has one.

Every vehicle that my parents have owned in years past has one (most not fords).

I couldn't find the one on my '97 Ranger, so I checked the Haynes book (which is rubbish, I know) which also said it couldn't be adjusted.

The mechanic who I got my sticker from last year confirmed that, and said I needed to adjust the rear brakes tighter. But I don't want them locking up any sooner than they do right now, so I refuse to do that.

If anyone knows different, let me know- stickers up at the end of the month and I'd like to avoid the headache if I can.

Doesn't that year of Ranger also use the "Drum in a HAT" parking brake?
IF you have 4 wheel disc, then it is so, and they adjust like old-school shoe brakes. If they're worn, replace em.

Negative on the drum in hat, and 4-wheel discs.

Standard drum brakes. If I crank the rear brakes down real tight by turning the star wheel, the e-brake grabs high like it should. But then rear brakes are way too grabby for safe driving on wet roads when unloaded.

E Brake rebuild

Before you begin you will need:
-New e-brake shoes. possibly-New Rotors,
- New pads
-Caliper hardware (rubber slide boots, slides)
-Caliper grease
-brake fluid
-brake cleaner

1) Release e-brake, chock front wheels, jack up the rear of the vehicle, and place it on jackstands. Take off both rear tires.
2) Unbolt the calipers (2 bolts), and place them on the leaf springs. Duct tape them, so they won't fall and strain the hose.
3) Get a LARGE prybar and brace against the caliper bracket and push the rotor outwards. Slowly rotate the caliper around and repeat. a few hammer taps may be in order here...
4) With the rotor off, inspect the parking brake. check for material transfer on the drum as well
5) Take the brake apart, and make sure everything works. Make sure all the cables work freely, etc.
6) Adjust the e-brake shoes outward untill you can just barely get the rotor on. If you have a brake measuring caliper this might help.
7) Clean the rotor before Putting it on.
8) Remove and Replace the pads in the calipers.
9) Replace the caliper slide rubber boots
10) Replace and grease the caliper slide pins.
11) Replace the calipers, and bleed the brakes.
12) Auto-adjust the e-brake by applying the ebrake, and putting the truck in reverse.

The job should take about 3- 4 hours,

john112deere said:

Negative on the drum in hat, and 4-wheel discs.

Standard drum brakes. If I crank the rear brakes down real tight by turning the star wheel, the e-brake grabs high like it should. But then rear brakes are way too grabby for safe driving on wet roads when unloaded.

Click to expand...

I'm leaving my info up anyway, lol...

There has to be a happy medium... between too much and sloppy?

I think I've found it. Brakes work good, e-brake locks tight enough to stall out the truck in first gear.

The garage doesn't quite agree.

Being that the brake has been set every time the truck has been parked for the last 240k miles and the cables are original, I'm willing to bet they've stretched a bit, though.

Well ryan once I am up in lee's summit, i'll give westlake a stop. I dunno about finding the right spring though lol

Be very afraid... The spring section is dark and secluded... watch out if he wants to show you his big screw...

aisle 17 directly behind the desk in hardware. There's a board mounted on the right with every spring on display. match the number next to the spring and then refer to the boxes directly to the left in numerical order.

Ryan

You mean UNDER.....

the only thing I'm thinking that's close to 'under' when I read your posts is when I think about how you'll be visiting the undertaker if you try that again.

Ryan