Hi all. When changing intake manifolds on an FE engine, can you simply un-bolt the rocker arm shaft and bolt it back on after swapping intake manifolds WITHOUT having to readjust the rockers ? I'm assuming on a stock 360 they're NON-adjustable rocker arms to begin with. I would ensure the push-rods go back into the exact same lifters, but I know I have to remove the push-rods to remove the intake manifold. Any help from those who have done this is appreciated. Thank you.

As long as everything goes back in the same place i'd feel safe just unbolting and reinstalling.

d-kuzmen said:

As long as everything goes back in the same place...

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x2
BTDT on mine and the lifters covered any changes, if any.

Where you at, 75?

Alvin in AZ

Alvin and D-Kuzmen, thank you both for your input. Greatly appreciated as I'm getting ready to remove the factory cast-iron 2 barrel intake and carb and replace it with a factory cast-iron 4 barrel intake and Autolite 4100 carb. Just had the carb completely overhauled by the Autolite Wizard himself, John Enyeart of Pony Carburetors. Staying with the cast-iron intake for carb mounting reasons as the aluminum aftermarket intakes have too narrow a ridge on either side of the carb, especially 4100's, and make them very prone to vacuum leaks. Plus John is a big fan of the vaporizing (or something like that) characteristics of the cast-iron intake. Don't care about the weight as the truck (75 F-250 Highboy 4X4) is heavy anyway.
Alvin, I live in Glendale, Az. Where are you located within Az. ?? Thanks again Gents. 75Hiboy

If the rockers dont have any adjustin screws on em then your fine to unbolt it and bolt em back on just be sure that ya get them pushrods down where theyre supposed to be. You can feel when theyre right cause theyll feel just a tiny tiny bit magnetic when ya pull em back from the lifter. If you do have adustable rockers (which are solid lifter only) then youll have to run the valves. Ive run both and I have to say that youll get more power out of an edelbrock intake rather than a factory cast iron ( also save ya from bustin a nut tryin to put that thing on there). Ive also never had a vacuum leak on mine I run a 1/2 inch compresed wood spacer on mine and a gasket on each side I just replace the gaskets each time I pull the carb off then I make sure it been tightened down square. Also a spacer would eliminate the worry of the carb base bein too narrow.

Thanks Dan. Good tip regarding the pushrods, as well as, using an aluminum intake. I really appreciate it. Got any preferences on which gasket sealer I should use ??? Doug (75 Hiboy)

I use this stuff also dont use them stupid cork gaskets on the front and back of the intake cause all they do is slide around while your tryin to line up the bolts or they squeeze out when ya torque em down.


The only place ive been able to find that sealant with the mini caulking gun is at Napa. Its the best sealant ive ever used and itll substitute for a gasket if ya need it to. When ya go to store it just squezze a little out the tube like the pic shows an it keeps the rest of the tube from dryin up. On the gaskets that go inbetween the intake and heads we use Hi tack and then the sealant around the intake ports and water jackets. Just remember to put a fairly good sized dab on all four corners where the heads meet the block. Then we also smooth out the rest of the sealant that pooches out when ya torque em down with a popcicle stick or a finger. It is very hard to scrape off if ya need to re do it and its kind of hard to get off your fingers.

Dan, this is perfect. I'll go to NAPA tomorrow and buy the mini caulking gun, the "Right Stuff" and, some high tack. I already threw the cork gaskets away because having done several other manifolds, I realize they have a tendency to split, crack, crush, leak, etc. REALLY appreciate the advice.

Yep no problem id get two tubes of it just to save yourself a trip cause it takes alot of it to do around all the ports and such. Brake cleaner works great for gettin it off your hands while its still wet. Youll have to invest in a wire wheel and electric drill to clean it off parts a gasket scraper takes forever to do it. I used this stuff on my 410 I built and itll only leake where ya dont put enough sealant. I usually spread it out with a popcicle stick first so it dont go all over the place when I tighten stuff down. The cork gaskets for the valvecovers are fine when ya use the sealant just make it thicker along the bottom side of the valvecover.

Dan, Thanks again. Can and will buy at least two tubes, but likely a couple more to have on hand. Appreciate the valve cover gasket suggestion as well. I did not mention this, because it's really no biggie, but I'm also replacing the valve covers while I'm at it. ?I have a pair of basic steel valve covers that have been chromed, so they'll look good and be easy to clean.
I'm assuming the wire wheel and drill (which I have) is IF I were to remove the intake someday, right ? Thanks again. Doug (75Hiboy)

Yep no problem ive learned the hard way to just take my time and do it right. Yes the drill is just to clean the surfaces if ya have to redo it.

I assumed that, but we know where that can get you, HA ! I do plan to take it slow, easy and to be very deliberate. I'll take some pics when I do it and post them if interested. Thanks again. Doug 75 HiBoy

Yep any questions just ask here. Also if ya do end up goin with a cast manifold its alot easier to use a cherry picker to get it off and put it back on. Ya just need a lift plate that bolts to the carb base. Not essential just easier to do than holdin onto 80 pounds by your fingertips while tryin to line it all up.

I've really enjoyed this site, Ford Truck Fanatics, because of the true comraderie and support I feel I receive, and try to give. The advice is ALWAYS welcome. I've also had good advice, and seen it from many others on this site. It's dang near got to the point that I'm checking this site every day !! I'll take some pics when doing the swap, if for not other reason than for posterity !! Thanks.

Yep its a great site and the fellers runnin it are doin a great job. Pics are always enjoyable for us.

1985 Ford F-150 said:

Yep its a great site and the fellers runnin it are doin a great job.

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x2!
"never hurts to suck up to the boss a little bit " -just made that up

Another great site is www.Fordification.com.

From what I've noticed guys are divided between two groups, those that like
Ginger and those that like Mary-Ann. ...oops wait a minute, that's a different
topic, guys that like pictures of the whole vehicle fresh washed and polished
and guys that'd rather see pictures of parts and other "process pictures".

I'm a parts+process picture guy myself.
I already know-ed what a Dent looks like.

Alvin in Vail
ps- Born, raised and went to work for the CP->SP in the Gadsden Purchase.
pps- Fill out your "stuf "!
ppps- "never hurts to lie a little bit" -my stepfather, supervisor for the SP,
not much of a mechanic, but one hell of a manager, knew just what to tell
the bosses to keep 'em from making things worse, even if it was a total lie!
{edit}
pppps- Put this in the www.Amazon.com seach window...
Spectre 903 Engine Hoist Plate
$10
That's the real reason I hit "post reply" then plumb forgot about it. LOL
Got one in the mail right now.

Thank you Alvin. I'll purchase the hoist plate and also will check out the "Fordification" website. Great weather today !!! Filled the bed of my Highboy with shrub and other yard maintenace stuff. 70 degrees !!

What ever happened to the pics? I am getting ready to do the swap with an Edelbrock Performer manifold on my 390

360 intake manifold swap

I tried doing the intake swap on my 1968 step side w/360. My problem is that it is very hard to get the end cork gaskets to stay in one place. Can anyone help? thanks

Cork sucks, make a bead of silicone. If you don't want to do that, then put a film of silicone on the gasket, use it to hold it in place. I pretty much never put cork in dry. You have to let the silicone dry a bit to get it to hold the gasket in place.